From writing to whisky

Dave Smith, St George Spirits

“The worst-case scenario? We drink it ourselves. And that’s not the worst thing to have to do.”

Dave Smith, head distiller at St George Spirits in Alameda, California, is a storyteller at heart. With a background that includes teaching, winemaking, and creative writing, his journey to whisky has been anything but conventional. Since joining St George in 2005, he has dedicated nearly two decades to crafting spirits that defy categories and celebrate creativity.

Initially intending to spend just a year at St George before returning to writing and winemaking, Smith found himself captivated by distillation. “I discovered a language in distillation — a love for process and the creative opportunity to tell a story in a way I’d never accessed before,” he explains. What began as a curiosity evolved into a calling, as Smith immersed himself in the craft under the mentorship of distilling legends Lance Winters and Jörg Rupf.

Smith’s early years at St George were both inspiring and intimidating. “I was a kid surrounded by masters, just trying to keep up,” he admits. Observing the precision and artistry Winters and Rupf brought to tasting and blending was transformative. “I watched them isolate aromas and flavours, then weave them together into something greater than the sum of its parts. It was the coolest thing I’d ever seen — and terrifying.”

Patience, he learned, is at the heart of great whisky making. “There’s no rushing this craft. Barrel ageing isn’t just time passing; it’s about honouring the raw materials and the process.”

Smith’s varied experiences have profoundly shaped his approach to whisky. His creative-writing background informs his belief in a distinctive identity for every spirit. “Just as you recognise a painter’s brush strokes or an author’s voice, a spirit should carry the thumbprint of its maker,” he says. At St George, this philosophy drives innovation, from its American single malts to gins that reflect the Bay Area’s unique landscape.

For those considering moving into distilling, Smith emphasises passion over practicality. “Don’t just ask how to make something; ask why. If you’re not clear on your purpose, you might be chasing the wrong thing.”

Looking ahead, Smith sees the whisky industry evolving towards authenticity and craft. “The things that carry heart and truth will endure,” he says.

“At St George, we’re building new classics — not for quick sales, but for something meaningful, decades down the line.”

From tax to tradition

Jennifer Nickerson, Tipperary Boutique Distillery

“You don’t get a second chance to make a first impression. Once someone tastes your whiskey, that’s the story they’ll tell forever.”

Jennifer Nickerson, co-founder of Ireland’s Tipperary Boutique Distillery, embodies the fusion of heritage and innovation in whiskey making. Once an associate tax director at KPMG, Nickerson changed from navigating tax codes to crafting single malt whiskey that reflects the essence of Tipperary’s land. Her journey is one of passion, persistence, and a refusal to take the easy path.

Nickerson’s transition into whiskey making was inspired by a desire for something more personal and lasting.

“I realised that, as much as I loved solving tax problems, if I left, someone else would do the same job. I wanted to create something that wouldn’t exist without me — something real and tangible,” she explains. With her husband’s farm providing the perfect foundation, and her father, industry stalwart Stuart Nickerson, being able to offer guidance, they set out to build a business rooted in the land.

For Nickerson, whiskey is more than a product — it’s an art form. “When you tweak your bottling strength, choose your casks, or blend to bring out unique characteristics, you’re creating something authentic. It’s like cooking; it’s a craft.”

Moving from a corporate environment to running a distillery brought its share of hurdles. “At KPMG, there was always someone to run things past or take care of the admin. Suddenly, I was the IT department, HR, and logistics all rolled into one,” Nickerson recalls. The lack of resources often feels overwhelming, but she has embraced the responsibility of being her own safety net. “Being the one to make the final call is freeing but incredibly stressful. When things go well, it’s satisfying. When they don’t, it’s all on you.”

Nickerson’s analytical background influences her whiskey-making approach. “If I can solve a problem with a spreadsheet, I will,” she laughs. Whether it is tracking nose, taste, and finish elements for blending or fine-tuning production settings, her goal is to refine the process without losing the artistry.

Two moments stand out as especially rewarding. The first was releasing whiskey made from their homegrown barley — a journey that began in their fields and ended in a bottle. “Holding something in your hands that you’ve grown, distilled, and nurtured is huge,” she says. The second is the daily magic of distilling itself. “Turning barley into spirit feels like alchemy. It’s one of the coolest things I do.”

Looking ahead, Nickerson predicts consolidation in the industry as rising costs challenge small producers and independent brands. But her focus remains on creating exceptional single malt whiskey. “I’d rather be known for making great single malt than just great Irish whiskey. The category is bigger than Ireland, and I want our whiskey to stand up on a global stage.”

From strategy to sustainability

Annabel Thomas, Nc’nean Distillery

“I hope Scotch will become more sustainable, more progressive, more diverse, and more innovative. It needs to to survive.”

Annabel Thomas, CEO and founder of Nc’nean Distillery, balances the heritage of whisky making with a resolute focus on sustainability. Thomas has turned her family’s farm on Scotland’s west coast into a trailblazing distillery. Her journey from London’s bustling consulting scene to the serene shores of the Highlands is a story of determination, innovation, and purpose.

Thomas’ professional journey began as a strategy consultant at Bain & Co, where she spent eight years helping consumer-goods and retail brands shape their futures. An externship at Innocent Drinks introduced her to the concept of a purpose-led business.

“There wasn’t really one pivotal moment that saw me move into whisky,” she explains. “But writing the business plan for Nc’nean made me realise there was a need for a distillery that pioneered sustainability, and wasn’t bound by tradition.”

The leap from consultancy to whisky making wasn’t immediate. Thomas spent nine months weighing the enormous commitment it would take to bring Nc’nean to life. When she finally made the move, in 2013, she set out to build a modern Scotch distillery with a mission to tread lightly on the planet.

Launching Nc’nean came with significant challenges, from working solo for four years to navigating the whisky industry’s unique quirks. “Consultants are famous for not having to implement their plans, so reality was a bit of a shock,” Thomas admits. Despite her inexperience in the whisky business, she was surprised and delighted by the sector’s friendliness, which helped her learn the ropes.

Thomas’ background has influenced her approach to whisky making. “I take an open-minded approach to how things should be done, rather than being influenced by tradition,” she says. At Nc’nean, this ethos translates into experimenting with innovative techniques, and championing sustainability. Her time at Innocent Drinks instilled a belief in building a business with purpose, a principle woven into Nc’nean’s DNA.

From pharmaceuticals to fine spirits

Lasse Öznek, Copenhagen Distillery

“The more I share our vision — to craft a spirit that’s distinctively Danish — the more people get on board. And that’s incredibly exciting.”

Lasse Öznek, master distiller at Copenhagen Distillery, epitomises the creativity and ingenuity of Danish whisky making. With a background in pharmaceutical science, his path to whisky was not a traditional one, but his pivot is a testament to the power of pursuing passion over predictability. 

A self-proclaimed “lifelong student of flavour”, Öznek credits his scientific training for instilling a meticulous approach. Yet it was his travels in Asia — Japan, Turkey, South Korea, and Hong Kong — that ignited a deeper appreciation for flavour and texture, inspiring him to leave pharmaceuticals for whisky. “The desire to create something tangible, something I could pour my heart and soul into, had been simmering within me for years,” he says.

Transitioning into distillation was not without its challenges. While his scientific background provided a solid foundation, initially his approach to innovation was met with scepticism.

“The thrill came from the freedom to explore, unbound by tradition, but forging a new path always comes with resistance,” he admits. Undeterred, he immersed himself in the art of whisky making, seeking mentors, and devoting countless hours to experimentation.

At Copenhagen Distillery, Öznek’s work embodies a uniquely Danish ethos. Techniques such as cold-smoking with beechwood nod to traditional Danish cuisine, while casks seasoned with their own Nordic spirits add an unmistakable local character. “True innovation thrives at the edge of tradition,” he says, a mantra that underpins every decision, from sourcing organic Danish barley to balancing flavours with scientific precision.

For Öznek, the rewards of whisky making are as personal as they are professional. “Creating something unique that reflects my vision and sharing it with others is incredibly fulfilling.” His advice to people considering a dramatic career change is simple. “Don’t wait for the ‘perfect’ moment. Life is short. Leap.”

As for the future, Öznek sees the whisky industry embracing sustainability and local identity, with craft distilleries like Copenhagen leading the charge. “We’re crafting whiskies that tell the story of Denmark, and that’s incredibly exciting.”