Whisky Magazine 15

Spirit of Ireland Isle of Arran Vintage Malts Blackadder

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Editor's Word From the Editor

By Marcin Miller

Musings with Michael Jackson How hip is your flask? Michael Jackson, on the road, With an ear for a great whisky

By Michael Jackson

Column Please, don't bring me sunshine Jim Murray knows one peculiar breed of Scotsman currently enjoying the wet conditions that are leaving thousands of Britons' homes...

By Jim Murray

Awards & Events Craic addiction Martin Betts muses on the effect St Patrick's Day has on people not just in Ireland, but all over the world

By Martin Betts

Distillery Focus Journey from hell to reach whisky heaven (Bushmills) Stuart Maclean Ramsay embarks on a perilous pilgrimage to Bushmills, home of the world's oldest distillery, in an attempt to...

By Stuart MacLean Ramsay

Distillery Focus A future classic from a modern distillery John Lamond visits the Isle of Arran Distilleryy, a modern distillery that produces a whisky that may well have enthusiasts...

By John Lamond

History Gone but not forgotten Robin Brilleman takes a tour of the Scottish Highlands and visits the distilleries that have, over the course of time,...

By Robin Brilleman

History War, Washington Whiskey Riannon Walsh uncovers the work of archaeologists rebuilding an important piece of American, and whiskey, history- the distillery owned by...

By Riannon Walsh

History Ireland's theory of evolution Susy Atkins examines Irish drinking culture and discovers that drinkers tastes have gradually changed and moved beyond Guinness, whiskey and liqueurs.

By Susy Atkins

Bars The essential guide to Speyside bars David Stirk is 'entertained in a truly Scottish manner' during his five-day whistle stop tour of Speyside allowing him to...

By David Stirk

Production Blackadder goes forth Tom Bruce-Gardyne talks to Robin Tcek, proprietor of the independent bottler blackadder, and finds out why he dislikes filtering, industry...

By Tom Bruce-Gardyne

People Edinburgh, whisky and crime (Ian Rankin) Marcin Miller talks to author Ian Rankin, 'the hottest name in British crime fiction', a whisky enthusiast with a gift...

By Marcin Miller

Places Pilgrimage to Ireland's green spot Stuart Maclean Ransay makes a nostalgic return to Ireland after twenty years and finds that, despite the pace of life...

By Stuart MacLean Ramsay

Food Cream of Campbeltown Martine Nouet savours Campeltown's whiskies before creating a menu that reflects that lush pastures, beautiful landscape and gentle light of Kintyre

By Martine Nouet

People In conversation with Barry Crockett Charles Maclean talks to Barry Crockett, Master Distiller at Midleton Distillery

By Charles MacLean

Susy AtkinsIreland's theory of evolutionSusy Atkins examines Irish drinking culture and discovers that drinkers tastes have gradually changed and...

Martin BettsCraic addictionMartin Betts muses on the effect St Patrick's Day has on people not just in...

Robin BrillemanGone but not forgottenRobin Brilleman takes a tour of the Scottish Highlands and visits the distilleries that have,...

Tom Bruce-GardyneBlackadder goes forthTom Bruce-Gardyne talks to Robin Tcek, proprietor of the independent bottler blackadder, and finds out...

Michael JacksonHow hip is your flask? Michael Jackson, on the road, With an ear for a great whisky

John LamondA future classic from a modern distilleryJohn Lamond visits the Isle of Arran Distilleryy, a modern distillery that produces a whisky...

Charles MacLeanIn conversation with Barry CrockettCharles Maclean talks to Barry Crockett, Master Distiller at Midleton Distillery

Marcin MillerEdinburgh, whisky and crime (Ian Rankin)Marcin Miller talks to author Ian Rankin, 'the hottest name in British crime fiction', a...

Jim MurrayPlease, don't bring me sunshineJim Murray knows one peculiar breed of Scotsman currently enjoying the wet conditions that are...

Martine NouetCream of CampbeltownMartine Nouet savours Campeltown's whiskies before creating a menu that reflects that lush pastures, beautiful...

Stuart MacLean RamsayPilgrimage to Ireland's green spotStuart Maclean Ransay makes a nostalgic return to Ireland after twenty years and finds that,...

David StirkThe essential guide to Speyside barsDavid Stirk is 'entertained in a truly Scottish manner' during his five-day whistle stop tour...

Riannon WalshWar, Washington WhiskeyRiannon Walsh uncovers the work of archaeologists rebuilding an important piece of American, and whiskey,...

Balblair
1969 Vintage

ABV 45%

Comments: For a whisky that is very light when young, this matures surprisingly well and for long periods

Overall score

8.5

Balmenach
1972

ABV 46%

Comments: A robust malt, but with many subtleties of character.

Overall score

8.4

Bushmills
16 Years Old

ABV 40%

Comments: Is the house character overwhelmed by the three woods (bourbon, sherry and port)? I'll give it the benefit of the doubt.

Overall score

8.3

Bushmills
Aged 12 Years, Distillery Reserve

ABV 40%

Comments: Cleaner than of old but no less characterful. Quite a cerebral whisky.

Overall score

7.9

Compass Box

ABV 43%

Comments: Quashes the theory that grain whisky cannot be taken seriously. Marvelously complex, surely containing the fabulous Cambus. The first classic of its genre.

Overall score

8.1

Connemara
Cask Strength

ABV 59.6%

Comments: Hmmm. Not quite the babe I was expecting. Due to the rarity of this malt vattings do tend to travel the quality spectrums.

Overall score

8.0

Connemara
Peated Single Malt

ABV 40%

Comments: Lots happening. Chimney pots of smoke. I love this whiskey.

Overall score

8.8

Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection
1990, Calvados Finish

ABV 40%

Comments: As with the Caol Ila wood finishes reviewed in the last issue, the calvados is a powerful influence but the whisky does fight back-makes for an interesting combination.

Overall score

6.4

Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection
1990, Cognac Finish

ABV 40%

Comments: Cognac finishes seem to have achieved results that are, at best, mixed. In this instance, the contribution is less than obvious.

Overall score

8.2

Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection
1990, Claret Finish

ABV 40%

Comments: A superb offering. Just wish G and M would be braver and go with a 43 or 46 rather than the standard 40.

Overall score

8.0

Green Spot
Irish Whiskey

ABV 40%

Comments: The most robust of the Irish whiskeys, ahead even of Redbreast.

Overall score

9.3

Highland Park
1977, Bicentenary Vintage Reserve

ABV 46%

Comments: Distilled during one of the best periods in HP's recent history. If only they had bottled at 46!! One of all time greats, for all that.

Overall score

9.4

Jameson
15 Years Old Limited Edition

ABV 40%

Comments: Sensational stuff of a style universally unique to Irish whiskey, the Midleton distillery in particular. A classic.

Overall score

8.8

Jameson
Gold

ABV 40%

Comments: No two vattings are ever the same. However this is, astonishingly high quality every time. The most complex Irish of them all; a blender triumph.

Overall score

8.7

Jameson
12 Years Old, Old Distillery Reserve

ABV 40%

Comments: I find the aroma quite sexy. The palate is big, but the finish leaves me wondering about the casks.

Overall score

8.3

Jameson
12 Years Old, Distillery Reserve (Midleton)

ABV 40%

Comments: Do you want liveliness (the regular 12) or elegant (the Distillery Reserve)? They have equal charms, and perhaps deserve similar scores, but I go for the former.

Overall score

8.4

Jameson
12 Years Old

ABV 40%

Comments: Never lets you down and offers the most old-fashioned and complex of Irish blended character. No nonsense but stunningly beautiful.

Overall score

8.5

Locke's
Irish Whiskey

ABV 40%

Comments: An interesting malt, with plenty to say, but restrained and balanced.

Overall score

8.4

Magilligan
Single Malt Irish Whiskey

ABV 43%

Comments: Seems slightly maltier and more estery than its stablemates.

Overall score

7.5

Rare Malts Selection
1979, Aged 21 Years

ABV 59.4%

Comments: Despite the low mark, pretty good by Coleburn standards. The nose and finale are impressive.

Overall score

7.2

Rare Malts Selection
1973, Aged 27 Years

ABV 60%

Comments: I think I remember a 25 year-old Cardhu of far better charm and balance.

Overall score

7.3

Rare Malts Selection
1978, Aged 22 Years

ABV 60.5%

Comments: Pungent, powerful and appetising. A dram for the Islay-lover and connoisseur. This distillery should be revived.

Overall score

9.0

Rare Malts Selection
1972, Aged 27 Years

ABV 64.2%

Comments: This little-known malt almost always surprises me with its robust flavours.

Overall score

8.0

Redbreast
Aged 12 Years

ABV 40%

Comments: Remains an all-Ireland great and one of the few true pure pot still whiskies around. A treat for even the most experienced connoisseur.

Overall score

8.9

Signatory
1984

ABV 40%

Comments: An excellent example of Caol Illa, a highly distinctive malt that is gaining in recognition.

Overall score

8.7

Signatory
1968, 32 Years Old

ABV 50.5%

Comments: Less soft than the younger expression. A drier, more robust, expression.

Overall score

8.3

Speyburn
1973

ABV 46%

Comments: Another light-tasting malt that blossoms with age. Its flavours belie the use of a malt that is scarcely peated.

Overall score

7.8

The Classic Cask
17 Years Old, Kentucky Bourbon

ABV 45.4%

Comments: Full flavoured. Well rounded. Long.

Overall score

8.2

The Classic Cask
15 Years Old, Kentucky Straight Rye

ABV 45%

Comments: Packed with flavour.

Overall score

8.0

The Cooper's Choice
1992

ABV 40%

Comments: A reminder of a great Lowland malt lost.

Overall score

8.3

The Cooper's Choice
10 Years Old

ABV 43%

Comments: A superb single cask boasting outstanding complexity. Marked down only by a slightly blemished nose.

Overall score

8.4

The Glenrothes
1987, 13 Years Old

ABV 40%

Comments: A well-sculpted malt with a restrained richness and limited complexity. Lovely weight throughout.

Overall score

8.2

The Scotch Malt Whisky Society
1977

ABV 0%

Comments: Much the best North Port I have tasted.

Overall score

7.8

The Tyrconnell
Single Malt

ABV 40%

Comments: By no means complex but not a single wayward note, either. Perhaps too one dimensional for some, this expression further proves what an excellent malt Cooley produces.

Overall score

7.7

Tullamore Dew
12 Years Old, Special Reserve

ABV 40%

Comments: Sophisticated and seductive, but I always find it a little lacking in substance.

Overall score

8.2

Whisky Magazine 15

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