Whisky Magazine 19

Jimmy Russell Japanese Whisky Illicit Distilling Bourbon Tasting

Editor's Word From the Editor

Musings with Michael Jackson The yellow coat Michael Jackson enjoys a Glenkinchie or two and celebrates the unbuttoning of Edinburgh

By Michael Jackson

A Dram with Dave Broom Fishing for consumers Dave Broom considers the merits of the Flying Lure when fishing for bass and one-dimensional, ole-fashioned whisky advertising

By Dave Broom

News Laphroaig Bessie's legacy

People The gentle man from Kentucky Stuart Maclean Ramsay catches up with wild Turkey's Jimmy Russell, roving bourbon ambassador, family man and true Kentucky gentleman.

By Stuart MacLean Ramsay

Production A special relationship Michael Jackson takes a reflective look at Japan, Scotland and whisky

By Michael Jackson

Bars Tokyo does it the Speyside Way (The Speyside Way) Taylor Smisson claims that Scotland doesn't have the monopoly on world-class Scotch malt whisky bars and visits Tokyo's The Speyside...

By Taylor Smisson

Distillery Focus The times they are a-changin' (Springbank) Campbeltown was the one-time whisky capital that experienced a catastrophic boom and bust. Dave Broom explains how Springbank, by sharing...

By Dave Broom

Production Star performers Tom Bruce-Gardyne talks to Fred and Stewart Laing, the independent bottlers who are not only brothers and business partners but...

By Tom Bruce-Gardyne

Production Still very important Ian Wisniewski explains how differing still designs influence the style and flavour of whisky

By Ian Wisniewski

Travel Walking through whisky country \"It's only through flavour that we'll understand whisky and maybe it's only by walking the country that we'll understand...

By Dave Broom

History Quenching the thirst for exploration Scott Longman recalls the tale of two 19th century heroes who, when requested to do so by the President, pushed...

By Scott Longman

Production Elusive and illicit Speyside spirit Gavin Smith traces the reportedly romantic but often mercenary history of illicit distilling in Speyside

By Gavin D. Smith

History A truly Scottish invention Brian Hennigan reaches the controversial conclusion that if you want a real McCoy whisky con or rip-off then the only...

By Brian Hennigan

Places The black sheep of the family (The Whisky Shop) Tom Bruce-Gardyne talks to self-confessed black sheep of the family, Peter Semple, who almost by accident found himself eventually ...

By Tom Bruce-Gardyne

Travel Racing horses and drinking bourbon Ken Hoskins visits Churchill Downs racetrack in Kentucky in an attempt to understand the people of Kentucky's keen taste for...

By Ken Hoskins

People In conversation (Richard Gordon) Charles MacLean talks to Richard Gordon, Managing Director of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, the world's premier whisky club –...

By Charles MacLean

Column Haydock: cask strength and un-chill filtered John Haydock attacks Whisky Magazine's policy on editorial censorship and questions the sexual orientation of Distillery Managers. Actually we cut...

By John Haydock

Dave BroomThe times they are a-changin' (Springbank)Campbeltown was the one-time whisky capital that experienced a catastrophic boom and bust. Dave Broom...

Tom Bruce-GardyneThe black sheep of the family (The Whisky Shop)Tom Bruce-Gardyne talks to self-confessed black sheep of the family, Peter Semple, who almost by...

John HaydockHaydock: cask strength and un-chill filteredJohn Haydock attacks Whisky Magazine's policy on editorial censorship and questions the sexual orientation of...

Brian HenniganA truly Scottish inventionBrian Hennigan reaches the controversial conclusion that if you want a real McCoy whisky con...

Ken HoskinsRacing horses and drinking bourbonKen Hoskins visits Churchill Downs racetrack in Kentucky in an attempt to understand the people...

Michael JacksonA special relationshipMichael Jackson takes a reflective look at Japan, Scotland and whisky

Scott LongmanQuenching the thirst for explorationScott Longman recalls the tale of two 19th century heroes who, when requested to do...

Charles MacLeanIn conversation (Richard Gordon)Charles MacLean talks to Richard Gordon, Managing Director of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, the...

Marcin MillerFrom the Editor

Stuart MacLean RamsayThe gentle man from KentuckyStuart Maclean Ramsay catches up with wild Turkey's Jimmy Russell, roving bourbon ambassador, family man...

Taylor SmissonTokyo does it the Speyside Way (The Speyside Way)Taylor Smisson claims that Scotland doesn't have the monopoly on world-class Scotch malt whisky bars...

Gavin D. SmithElusive and illicit Speyside spiritGavin Smith traces the reportedly romantic but often mercenary history of illicit distilling in Speyside

Ian WisniewskiStill very important Ian Wisniewski explains how differing still designs influence the style and flavour of whisky

Adelphi
35 Years Old, Cask 2112

ABV 54.6%

Comments: Tullibardine is a gentle, civilised, malt that seems to live in obscurity. Nice to be reminded of its existence. Could be a golfers dram - the distillery is near Gleneagles.

Overall score

7.9

American Biker
Sour Mash Bourbon, 6 Years Old

ABV 43%

Comments: No easy rider this, more a Hell's Angel.

Overall score

6.5

Antiquary
21 Years Old

ABV 43%

Comments: Complex and ever-changing.

Overall score

8.3

Baker's
7 Years Old

ABV 53.5%

Comments: Big soft and gentle, but too sweet for me.

Overall score

8.1

Basil Hayden's
Small Batch, 8 Years Old

ABV 40%

Comments: A sassy little glass: the charmer to Booker's bruiser. A midday Old Fashioned.

Overall score

8.3

Booker's
6 Years Old

ABV 63.25%

Comments: A huge old-style mouthful but the high-strength masks much of the subtle complexities in what is a big-boned bourbon.

Overall score

8.7

Bowmore
Dawn

ABV 51.5%

Comments: Like sucking a wine gum in a kiln. A little too winey for me.

Overall score

8.3

Bruichladdich
20 Years Old

ABV 46%

Comments: Elegant. You'd never guess it's 20 Years Old. Great balance between salt and soft fruit.

Overall score

8.7

Bruichladdich
15 Years Old

ABV 46%

Comments: More rounded and restrained than I remember, but lots of flavour development in that long middle. Bring on the Islay oysters.

Overall score

8.4

Bulleit
Original Bourbon

ABV 45%

Comments: Old-style, teeth-sucking stuff. If this was a singer it would be Merle Haggard. A great cocktail base.

Overall score

7.8

Eagle Rare
17 Years Old

ABV 45%

Comments: Some interesting flavours, with lots of dimensions, but no balance or structure. I'm not wild about Angel Delight.

Overall score

7.7

Early Times
354 Bourbon

ABV 40%

Comments: All very pleasant, but a pretty one-dimensional experience. No-one could be offended by this, but no-one will be excited either.

Overall score

7.0

Evan Williams
1991, Single Barrel

ABV 43.3%

Comments: One for rye fans.

Overall score

8.4

Four Roses
Bourbon

ABV 40%

Comments: Even the colour is pale. This is a very gentle introduction to bourbon, but with all the elements.

Overall score

7.7

George A. Dickel's
Tennessee Whisky No. 12

ABV 45%

Comments: A Doc Watson of a whiskey, mild-mannered but full of tricks. Please UDV, start pushing it!

Overall score

8.2

Glenfiddich
1965 Vintage Reserve

ABV 47.8%

Comments: A playful whisky for one of such maturity. Starting very sweetly, but reluctant to reveal its secrets. Give it time to reveal its complexity.

Overall score

8.7

Glengoyne
Scottish Oak Finish

ABV 53.5%

Comments: A rather eccentric version of Glengoyne. Very distinctive. A digestive after Thai food or even a curry?

Overall score

7.7

Jefferson's Reserve
15 Years Old

ABV 45.1%

Comments: A good sipper, but too woody for me.

Overall score

8.1

Knob Creek
9 Years Old

ABV 50%

Comments: Less thick than Baker's and better balanced. Another great cocktail bourbon. Big and rich.

Overall score

8.2

Laphroaig
1960 Vintage Reserve

ABV 42.4%

Comments: Complex, graceful and fascinating.

Overall score

8.4

Maker's Mark
Kentucky Straight Bourbon

ABV 45%

Comments: Chewy and mellow. Great balance and elegance. Still a classic.

Overall score

8.2

Old Fitzgerald
12 Years Old

ABV 45%

Comments: A deep earthy affair. One to sip with a good cigar. Gene Clark.

Overall score

8.3

Old Forester
86 Proof Kentucky Bourbon

ABV 43%

Comments: A great old-style sippin' bourbon and a great base for an Old Fashioned.

Overall score

7.9

Pappy Van Winkle
20 Years Old, Family Reserve

ABV 45.2%

Comments: A subtle sipper to be taken neat and definitely without ice!

Overall score

8.7

Sam Houston
Very Small Batch, 10 Years Old

ABV 45%

Comments: An attractive, tawny, colour and a good, straight-ahead, whiskey. Could be more complex at ten years. Ideal with a Texas barbecue?

Overall score

7.8

Signatory
1976, Cask Strength

ABV 53.1%

Comments: An enjoyable malt, but Glendronach is capable of more.

Overall score

7.7

The Glenlivet
Cellar Collection, 30 Years Old, American Oak Finish

ABV 48%

Comments: Good, if you like this in-yer-face style but why do you need to 'finish' a 30 Years Old malt? To give a lift to a malt that lacked complexity?

Overall score

8.3

The Scotch Malt Whisky Society
Birthday Bottle, 1972, 28 Years Old

ABV 54.6%

Comments: A big gentle well-balanced dram. Deep and old.

Overall score

8.4

The Scotch Malt Whisky Society
24.48 – 11 Years Old

ABV 57.8%

Comments: It is always interesting to taste a Macallan that is less sherried than usual. This one could have been rounder.

Overall score

7.9

The Talisman
Blended Scotch Whisky

ABV 40%

Comments: Attractive, well-balanced and harmonious. Good session blend.

Overall score

7.9

Very Old Barton
6 Years Old

ABV 43%

Comments: Good old style punchy bourbon. Hank Williams.

Overall score

7.7

Virginia Gentleman
90 Proof, Small Batch Bourbon

ABV 45%

Comments: Less characterful than the Virginia Gentleman I remember, but still quite distinctive.

Overall score

7.7

W.L. Weller
Aged 12 Years

ABV 45%

Comments: A classic, complex wheated bourbon. Great material for an Old Fashioned.

Overall score

8.5

Wild Turkey
8 Years Old, 101

ABV 40%

Comments: A huge whiskey. Put together with style and sophistication, but still with all the robustness of a true bourbon. A classic, of course. A Clint Eastwood of whiskeys.

Overall score

8.8