Whisky Magazine 20

Whisky & Literature Glengoyne Vintage Malts Canadian Tasting

Whisky & Culture Walsh and Gunn: the quiet maen Maurice Walsh and Neil Gunn – two celebrated authors slowly being rediscovered. Gavin Smith explains the appeal of these...

By Gavin D. Smith

Editor's Word From the editor

By Marcin Miller

Musings with Michael Jackson Near the Finnish line? Michael Jackson enthuses, but finds it hard to finish

By Michael Jackson

A Dram with Dave Broom First impressions last Dave Broom mulls over recent world events, the stereotypes that influence first impressions and the ties that bind us all....

By Dave Broom

Whisky & Culture Whisky and the written word Brian Hennigan examines the positive and often negative relationship between writers, their work and the water of life.

By Brian Hennigan

Tastings Describing flavour Pip Hills penetrates the smokescreen surrounding the complexities of tasting, flavour and how to describe them in a way we...

By Pip Hills

Production Maltster and servant A keen collector of first-hand information on whisky, Martine Nouet had the fantastic opportunity to make a whisky-lover and -writer's...

By Martine Nouet

Distillery Focus Alchemy by the Bay Stuart MacLean Ramsay takes a trip to the US west coast and checks out three very different but equally daring...

By Stuart MacLean Ramsay

Distillery Focus Sole Survivor (Glengoyne) John Lamond visits Glengoyne Distillery – an enduring whisky landmark in an area littered with the remains of over 20...

By John Lamond

Whisky & Culture A Walker on the wild side Jefferson Chase kicks off a new feature looking at whisky in literature. Step forward Walker Percy, as we salute you …

By Jefferson Chase

History Scotland and whisky: the real story Pip Hills strips away years of bombast, puff and heavy stereotype to reveal the truth about Scotland and whisky

By Pip Hills

Places Pushing back the frontiers of spirit in France (La Maison du Whisky) Martine Nouet takes a closer look at near-legendary La Maison du Whisky, the Paris store that's done so much to...

By Martine Nouet

News Vintage appeal Ian Wisniewski explains what makes a vintage worth shelling out extra cash for – and why collectors are going crazy...

By Ian Wisniewski

Food A taste of Ireland Martine Nouet heads into the little-charted waters of cooking with Irish whiskey, combining traditional Gaelic fare with some arguably controversial...

By Martine Nouet

News Why Scotch is sexy in Spain Tom Bruce-Gardyne explores the reasons, both cultural and political, behind Spain becoming the world's biggest consumer of Scotch whisky and...

By Tom Bruce-Gardyne

People In conversation (Evan Thomas Cattanach) Charles MacLean meets Evan Thomas Cattanach, long-term Distillery Manager and now Director of Scotch Knowledge for Schefflin & Somerset in...

By Charles MacLean

Column Haydock: a tear in the fabric of space and time John Haydock attacks everybody, dismisses everything then wakes up and denies it all exclusively in Whisky \rMagazine every issue. Remember...

By John Haydock

Dave BroomFirst impressions lastDave Broom mulls over recent world events, the stereotypes that influence first impressions and the...

Tom Bruce-GardyneWhy Scotch is sexy in SpainTom Bruce-Gardyne explores the reasons, both cultural and political, behind Spain becoming the world's biggest...

Jefferson ChaseA Walker on the wild sideJefferson Chase kicks off a new feature looking at whisky in literature. Step forward Walker...

John HaydockHaydock: a tear in the fabric of space and timeJohn Haydock attacks everybody, dismisses everything then wakes up and denies it all exclusively in...

Brian HenniganWhisky and the written wordBrian Hennigan examines the positive and often negative relationship between writers, their work and the...

Pip HillsScotland and whisky: the real storyPip Hills strips away years of bombast, puff and heavy stereotype to reveal the truth...

Michael JacksonNear the Finnish line?Michael Jackson enthuses, but finds it hard to finish

John LamondSole Survivor (Glengoyne)John Lamond visits Glengoyne Distillery – an enduring whisky landmark in an area littered with...

Charles MacLeanIn conversation (Evan Thomas Cattanach)Charles MacLean meets Evan Thomas Cattanach, long-term Distillery Manager and now Director of Scotch Knowledge...

Marcin MillerFrom the editor

Martine NouetPushing back the frontiers of spirit in France (La Maison du Whisky)Martine Nouet takes a closer look at near-legendary La Maison du Whisky, the Paris store...

Stuart MacLean RamsayAlchemy by the BayStuart MacLean Ramsay takes a trip to the US west coast and checks out three...

Gavin D. SmithWalsh and Gunn: the quiet maen Maurice Walsh and Neil Gunn – two celebrated authors slowly being rediscovered. Gavin Smith...

Ian WisniewskiVintage appealIan Wisniewski explains what makes a vintage worth shelling out extra cash for – and...

Auchroisk
10 Years Old

ABV 43%

Comments: This version is not obviously sherryish, but still manages very big flavours indeed. I'm very impressed.

Overall score

7.7

Bruichladdich
10 Years Old

ABV 46%

Comments: Best as a wake-up call at 10am.

Overall score

8.1

Canadian Club
8 Years Old, Sherry Cask

ABV 41.3%

Comments: Does Canadian work with sherry? I think bourbon wood has more to offer, but this is a nice try.

Overall score

7.6

Canadian Club
100 Proof

ABV 50%

Comments: About as robust a whisky as I have tasted from the established Canadian distillers.

Overall score

7.2

Canadian Club
Classic, Aged 12 Years

ABV 40%

Comments: Rye bite with butter and vanilla coating. Cowboy Junkies.

Overall score

7.8

Canadian Club
Reserve, 10 Years Old

ABV 40%

Comments: Easy going and middle of the road, but needs another layer of complexity to lift it into greatness. Bryan Adams.

Overall score

7.7

Canadian Mist
Original

ABV 40%

Comments: Hard to love. Rush.

Overall score

6.7

Century Reserve
21 Years Old

ABV 40%

Comments: Seems light and approachable but carries a switchblade in its pocket. Robbie Robertson.

Overall score

7.9

Century Reserve
15 Years Old

ABV 40%

Comments: A little short but more to it than meets the eye. Alanis Morissette.

Overall score

7.5

Chieftain's
Aged 21 Years, Sherry Butt

ABV 46%

Comments: A good Teaninich, austere, grassy yet with an extra dimension.

Overall score

7.8

Chieftain's
Aged 11 Years

ABV 43%

Comments: Has retained the distillery character but given it a sweeter lift.

Overall score

7.8

Chieftain's
Aged 10 Years

ABV 43%

Comments: Crunchy! Attractive.

Overall score

7.7

Crown Royal
Special Reserve

ABV 40%

Comments: Much more character.

Overall score

8.3

Crown Royal
Canadian Blended Whisky

ABV 40%

Comments: Like Seagram's VO Gold, a delicate but wonderfully dextrous blend.

Overall score

8.0

Forty Creek
Barrel Select

ABV 40%

Comments: Good balance with lots of extractive flavours. Oscar Peterson.

Overall score

8.3

Forty Creek
Three Grain

ABV 40%

Comments: In palate, the closer of the two to the Canadian tradition. Wins points for that attribute. I could drink quite a few of these.

Overall score

7.8

Gibson's Finest
12 Years Old

ABV 40%

Comments: Attractive, lifted, spicy yet soft. K. d. lang.

Overall score

7.9

Gibson's Finest
18 Years Old

ABV 40%

Comments: Appetising, Very enjoyable.

Overall score

8.3

Gibson's Finest
Sterling

ABV 40%

Comments: Is there enough of a bridge between the youngest and oldest whiskies?

Overall score

7.8

Girvan
1964, Single Grain

ABV 48%

Comments: I've always had a soft spot for this distillery's Black Barrel, and I like this version even more. Not very complex - but it is a grain whisky.

Overall score

8.3

Glen Spey
12 Years Old, Distillery Malt

ABV 43%

Comments: Richer and more expressive than any version I have tasted previously. Extraordinary sweetness.

Overall score

7.3

Glenmorangie
Manager's Choice Port Wood

ABV 57.2%

Comments: More of a cocktail than a malt as if some wine has been left in the glass and Glenmorangie poured on top of it. Help! I'm confused!

Overall score

7.8

Glenmorangie
Three Cask Matured

ABV 40%

Comments: A very unusual vatting (bourbon, plain charred oak and Rioja) has produced equally strange flavours. Less oaky vanilla and more Rioja than I would have expected. I like its eccentricity, but it loses points for lack of whisky character.

Overall score

7.5

Glenmorangie
Côte de Beaune

ABV 46%

Comments: As the glass sits on my desk, aromas and flavours slowly emerge, I like it more and more, but I suspect it will always be overshadowed by last year's Côte de Nuits.

Overall score

8.3

Grant's
25 Years Old

ABV 40%

Comments: A long maturation for a blend, but this has emerged with confidence, style and sophistication.

Overall score

8.6

Knappogue Castle
1993

ABV 40%

Comments: Hugely drinkable. Young but sweetly vibrant.

Overall score

7.5

Mackillop's Choice
1966

ABV 46.5%

Comments: Delicate, light and simple.

Overall score

7.7

Mackillop's Choice
1967

ABV 41.4%

Comments: Is this one of those GK peated experiments? Or made soon after? Shame it wasn't bottled five years ago when it had more life.

Overall score

7.4

Seagram's
Very Old Gold, 8 Years Old

ABV 40%

Comments: Creamy and lovely. A great introduction to the Canadian style. Buffalo Springfield.

Overall score

8.0

Signatory
1989

ABV 46%

Comments: A fine example of Caol Ila - in one of its peatier moods.

Overall score

8.4

Signatory
1990

ABV 46%

Comments: Robust as ever, but much more peatiness than I associate with this distillery. Oaky, too, for a relatively young whisky.

Overall score

8.3

Signatory
1991

ABV 46%

Comments: I'm glad still to be able to taste a whisky from this long-gone distillery, but it's really one for the collectors.

Overall score

7.3

Signatory
1990

ABV 46%

Comments: Good, but not as good as the distillery bottlings.

Overall score

7.9

Signatory
1988

ABV 46%

Comments: A Norse nose, concentrated and delicious with more smoke than you normally find, though maybe a little woody.

Overall score

8.8

Signatory
1983

ABV 46%

Comments: Confusing aroma, but otherwise the most enjoyable Millburn I have tasted.

Overall score

7.5

Strathmill
12 Years Old

ABV 43%

Comments: A dessert malt, perhaps, but for that purpose I prefer sweeter bottlings.

Overall score

7.4

The Famous Grouse
Islay Cask Finish

ABV 40%

Comments: To reconcile the style of the regular Grouse with Islay is an achievement, but a dubious one. Grouse has a powerful franchise, but Highland already has an Islay-accented blend in the excellent Black Bottle.

Overall score

8.1

The Famous Grouse
Port Wood Finish

ABV 40%

Comments: Port wood can add toffeeish and spicy flavours, rounding out a whisky without adding an obvious wine flavour. That is what happens here.

Overall score

7.5

The Macallan
Replica, 1861

ABV 42.7%

Comments: Like the touch of peat-when's that batch getting bottled?

Overall score

8.8

W.L. Weller
19 Years Old

ABV 45%

Comments: If this had been bottled for six or seven years ago, I would probably have loved its big flavours. I like oak, but this is too much, and too old, for me. If you are an oak extremist, rush out and buy this one.

Overall score

8.3

William Grant's
Ale Cask Reserve

ABV 40%

Comments: Fresh and seductively drinkable. I'm astonished how well this innovation worked. The ale was brewed especially to add much more malty sweetness than hop.

Overall score

7.8

William Grant's
Sherry Cask

ABV 40%

Comments: Masculine. Rather austere, aloof.

Overall score

8.0

Whisky Magazine 20

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