Whisky Magazine 22

Festival Previews Collecting Forsyth's Caramel 12 year olds tasting

News A tangled web Richard Jolley delves into the ether for a wide world of whisky web sites and discusses the future for...

By Richard Jolley

Editor's Word From the Editor

By Marcin Miller

Musings with Michael Jackson The public burning Michael Jackson has a touch of Talisker's Syndrome

By Michael Jackson

A Dram with Dave Broom Rant rant rant Dave Broom joins the rant race

By Dave Broom

Awards & Events The Whisky Academy The inaugural annual Whisky Magazine award for those individuals who have excelled in their contribution to the whisky industry

People The 2 Barries The hands-on whiskey makers who have helped re-shape Irish whiskey, in conversation with Michael Jackson

By Michael Jackson

Awards & Events A sense of Islay Martine Nouet takes a scent and taste tour of whisky's most famous island as a preview for the forthcoming Islay...

By Martine Nouet

Awards & Events Speyside festival preview It's bigger, it's better and it's back – yes, once again, the Spirit of Speyside Whisky Festival is upon us...

By Ian Buxton

Production The Forsyth's saga Tom Bruce-Gardyne visits Speyside still-makers Forsyth's to find out about the leading coppersmiths

By Tom Bruce-Gardyne

Production A choice dram Tom Bruce-Gardyne meets one of single-cask bottling's real success stories, as Lorne Mackillop and his Mackillop's Choice label go from...

By Tom Bruce-Gardyne

Production Proof at last - the Irish invented whisk(e)y! A source of pride for the Scots – but Barry Walsh discovers the ‘truth' behind the origins of whisk(e)y

By Barry Walsh

Production Caramel keg Ian Wisniewski investigates one of whisky's most controversial and maligned ingredients … caramel

By Ian Wisniewski

Collections Collecting dust Certain whiskies, distillery names and expressions are highly desirable to collectors – Gavin Smith tries to find out why: what...

By Gavin D. Smith

Production Age before beauty Does older always mean better with whisky? Gavin Smith looks at the facts

By Gavin D. Smith

Whisky & Culture The Irish Rover William Trevor knew the effects of alcohol on a situation: how it could be both catalyst and extinguisher. Jefferson Chase...

By Jefferson Chase

Column Haydock: truth is everything He's back – and this time it's personal. John Haydock keeps the faith, fights the power and damns the man....

By John Haydock

Dave BroomRant rant rantDave Broom joins the rant race

Tom Bruce-GardyneA choice dramTom Bruce-Gardyne meets one of single-cask bottling's real success stories, as Lorne Mackillop and his...

Ian BuxtonSpeyside festival previewIt's bigger, it's better and it's back – yes, once again, the Spirit of Speyside...

Jefferson ChaseThe Irish RoverWilliam Trevor knew the effects of alcohol on a situation: how it could be both...

John HaydockHaydock: truth is everythingHe's back – and this time it's personal. John Haydock keeps the faith, fights the...

Michael JacksonThe 2 BarriesThe hands-on whiskey makers who have helped re-shape Irish whiskey, in conversation with Michael Jackson

Richard JolleyA tangled web Richard Jolley delves into the ether for a wide world of whisky web sites...

Marcin MillerFrom the Editor

Martine NouetA sense of IslayMartine Nouet takes a scent and taste tour of whisky's most famous island as a...

Gavin D. SmithAge before beautyDoes older always mean better with whisky? Gavin Smith looks at the facts

Barry WalshProof at last - the Irish invented whisk(e)y!A source of pride for the Scots – but Barry Walsh discovers the ‘truth' behind...

Ian WisniewskiCaramel keg Ian Wisniewski investigates one of whisky's most controversial and maligned ingredients … caramel

Adelphi
27 Years Old, Cask 2568

ABV 56.3%

Comments: The 12 Years Old is good but this has another layer of complexity.

Overall score

8.4

Antiquary
12 Years Old

ABV 40%

Comments: Feminine. Elegant. Having talked myself into an oriental mind-set, I begin to wonder whether this whisky would accompany some Asian dishes.

Overall score

7.9

Bowmore
12 Years Old

ABV 40%

Comments: Glad to see a Bowmore with an age rather than a brand-name.

Overall score

8.5

Connoisseur's Choice
1990

ABV 40%

Comments: All of Ardbeg and some more. Uncompromising.

Overall score

8.2

Connoisseur's Choice
1988

ABV 40%

Comments: A good attractive introduction.

Overall score

7.7

Cragganmore
12 Years Old

ABV 40%

Comments: It's worth taking the trouble.

Overall score

8.9

Cutty Sark
12 Years Old

ABV 40%

Comments: Clean, fresh and refreshing. A whisky for the beach?

Overall score

7.8

Eagle Rare
10 Years Old

ABV 45%

Comments: Quite a mouthful which takes no prisoners.

Overall score

7.6

Glen Garioch
10 Years Old

ABV 40%

Comments: An everyday, mid-weight malt.

Overall score

7.6

Glendullan
12 Years Old

ABV 43%

Comments: Big in both body and flavours, but restrained and controlled throughout.

Overall score

7.7

Glenfarclas
12 Years Old

ABV 43%

Comments: A powerful bugger and a great introduction to the distillery style, but you feel you'd get much more in a couple of years.

Overall score

8.2

Glenfiddich
12 Years Old, Special Reserve

ABV 40%

Comments: A young, light, uncomplicated dram. Drink over ice.

Overall score

7.6

Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection
1988, Sherry Wood Finish

ABV 40%

Comments: The sherry gives roundness but doesn't dominate Caol Ila's characteristic energy.

Overall score

7.7

Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection
1943

ABV 45%

Comments: Incredible for a whisky this age to have retained such charm and elegance. A faded beauty.

Overall score

8.4

Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection
1990, Sherry Finish

ABV 40%

Comments: Drier and nuttier than the port, but again the finish is in charge.

Overall score

7.1

Isle of Skye
12 Years Old

ABV 40%

Comments: The aromas and flavours evoke breakfast, but in a farmhouse kitchen with an open fire, rused and dashed by the winds down the chimney.

Overall score

8.2

Karuizawa
Aged 12 Years

ABV 40%

Comments: Disappointing. Seems to have the elements of a good whisky but nothing has knitted.

Overall score

6.9

Linkwood
12 Years Old

ABV 43%

Comments: Linkwood always evokes thoughts of sweetmeats. This one seems a particularly sweet interpetation.

Overall score

7.9

Lombard
1964

ABV 46%

Comments: Interesting and while not overly woody (given its age) one for sherried malt lovers only.

Overall score

7.9

Lombard
1965

ABV 46%

Comments: Robust, but lacks the delicacy and structure of the best Springbanks.

Overall score

8.2

Mackillop's Choice
1989, Cask 3322

ABV 57.7%

Comments: If Caol Ila can evoke the aroma and flavour of junipers, perhaps it can also suggest olive oil, vine leaves, couscous, baked aubergines. I have had great martinis in Tangier. Next time, a Caol Ila Sour?

Overall score

7.9

Mackillop's Choice
1974, Cask 10

ABV 59.9%

Comments: Showing its age, but still with the distillery character. Glencadam has its devotees and, with the distillery's future uncertain, supplies are finite.

Overall score

7.3

Mackillop's Choice
1982, Cask 1336

ABV 62.6%

Comments: Lovely weight and carries its age well (though dies a bit quickly in the glass).

Overall score

7.5

Mackillop's Choice
1975, Cask 4

ABV 58.2%

Comments: Lovely, soft and sweet.

Overall score

7.8

Old Charter
12 Years Old

ABV 45%

Comments: A good, substantial bourbon.

Overall score

7.7

Old Malt Cask
The Ardbeggeddon, 1972, Aged 28 Years, Sherry Cask

ABV 48.4%

Comments: For true believers only. The most intense, full-on Ardbeg I've ever come across.

Overall score

8.6

Scottish Leader
12 Years Old, Supreme

ABV 40%

Comments: LOTS of sherry and fat, rich flavours. One for those who like their whiskies well covered.

Overall score

7.5

Signatory
1975, Cask Strength

ABV 51.8%

Comments: Has mellowed with age. I missed the more assertively maritime characteristics in some younger Bowmores.

Overall score

8.3

Signatory
1989, Cask Strength

ABV 58.3%

Comments: The more typical of the two 1989 versions. For me, classic Caol Ila, with a touch of peat, noses ahead of the fruitier, more sensuous, expression.

Overall score

8.3

Signatory
1989, South African Sherry Butt

ABV 58.7%

Comments: At the risk of being pedantic are you allowed to call it South African sherry?

Overall score

7.6

Tambowie
12 Years Old

ABV 40%

Comments: Gentle and undemanding.

Overall score

7.3

Tamnavulin
12 Years Old

ABV 40%

Comments: Strangely the label says both 'naturally light'

Overall score

7.2

Tantallan
12 Years Old

ABV 40%

Comments: Good flavours in the middle, but not very well rounded.

Overall score

7.7

The Macallan
12 Years Old

ABV 40%

Comments: Can a malt be both popular and good? Of course, but not if your taste is determined by elitism. (The same applies to musicians, writers, etc).

Overall score

8.5

The Pibroch
12 Years Old

ABV 43%

Comments: All the components but not very well integrated. Oiliness seems to dominate.

Overall score

7.8

Van Winkle
12 Years Old, Lot B

ABV 45.2%

Comments: Gentle but rich. Somehow the reverse of the Weller, smells spicy and becomes honeyed in the mouth.

Overall score

8.0

W.L. Weller
Aged 12 Years

ABV 45%

Comments: An amazingly sexy nose, but disappoints slightly on the palate.

Overall score

7.8

Wild Turkey 17 Years Old

ABV 50.5%

Comments: All the power you expect from this distillery. Late at night.

Overall score

8.7

Whisky Magazine 22

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