Whisky Magazine 23

Iain Henderson Ben Nevis Eau-de-vie stills Moonshine Vatted Malts tasting

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Editor's Word From the editor

By Marcin Miller

Musings with Michael Jackson The pipes are calling Michael Jackson gets away from it all

By Michael Jackson

A Dram with Dave Broom Moments, whatnots and wheelbarrows Dave Broom gets a round. Kind of

By Dave Broom

History Iain Henderson: a life less ordinary Dave Broom talks to Laphroaig's legendary – and now sadly retired – Distillery Manager about the highs and lows of...

By Dave Broom

Production Throwing copper Ian Wisniewski investigates the effect this enigmatic metal has on the finished product - whisky

By Ian Wisniewski

Production Covert operations Dave Broom decides it's high time for Inver House Distillers to spill the beans

By Dave Broom

Production Shining example: Junior Johnson, NASCAR and John Q Law Scott Longman looks behind a modern American hero to find he casts a more interesting shadow than most

By Scott Longman

Travel Happy hunting grounds - Mystery Visitor goes to Speyside Shrouded in an enigmatic air, Whisky Magazine's undercover visitor centre guru checks out four of Speyside's finest

Places Frontier spirit (Oddbins) A drinks retail pioneer, Oddbins stands head and shoulders above many other UK chains for the way it approaches and...

By Tom Bruce-Gardyne

Distillery Focus Ben Nevis Ian Buxton peeks behind the scenes at one of Scotland's most enduring distilleries

By Ian Buxton

Food The French touch Whisky Magazine's food expert Martine Nouet invites you to try a touch of Scottish fare – in Paris

By Martine Nouet

Musings with Michael Jackson From Eau-de-Vie to Uisge Beatha Alex Kraaijeveld looks at the growth of alternative distillers worldwide – and he likes what he sees

By Alex Kraaijeveld

Whisky & Culture Hugh Leonard: everything but the kitsch Jefferson Chase takes a look at the Irish author and playwright's whiskey references within his acclaimed work

By Jefferson Chase

Column Haydock hits out Some say ‘when the going gets tough, the tough get going'. So John Haydock stays right where he is

By John Haydock

Dave BroomIain Henderson: a life less ordinaryDave Broom talks to Laphroaig's legendary – and now sadly retired – Distillery Manager about...

Tom Bruce-GardyneFrontier spirit (Oddbins)A drinks retail pioneer, Oddbins stands head and shoulders above many other UK chains for...

Ian BuxtonBen NevisIan Buxton peeks behind the scenes at one of Scotland's most enduring distilleries

Jefferson ChaseHugh Leonard: everything but the kitschJefferson Chase takes a look at the Irish author and playwright's whiskey references within his...

John HaydockHaydock hits outSome say ‘when the going gets tough, the tough get going'. So John Haydock ...

Michael JacksonThe pipes are callingMichael Jackson gets away from it all

Alex KraaijeveldFrom Eau-de-Vie to Uisge BeathaAlex Kraaijeveld looks at the growth of alternative distillers worldwide – and he likes what...

Scott LongmanShining example: Junior Johnson, NASCAR and John Q LawScott Longman looks behind a modern American hero to find he casts a more interesting...

Marcin MillerFrom the editor

Martine NouetThe French touchWhisky Magazine's food expert Martine Nouet invites you to try a touch of Scottish...

Ian WisniewskiThrowing copperIan Wisniewski investigates the effect this enigmatic metal has on the finished product - whisky

Adelphi
12 Years Old, Cask 3280

ABV 57.2%

Comments: Pungent and vibrant but lacks the beautiful Clynelish style.

Overall score

7.6

Ballantine's
12 Years Old, Pure Malt

ABV 40%

Comments: Elegantly restrained. An excellent pure malt for socialising.

Overall score

7.9

Blairmhor
8 Years Old

ABV 40%

Comments: Takes you on the Speyside Way for a pleasant digestive walk.

Overall score

7.2

Cadenhead's
1989, 12 Years Old

ABV 56.3%

Comments: A neat, summery comforter. Perfect dram for hillwalkers.

Overall score

7.9

Cadenhead's
1969, Sherry Wood

ABV 51.2%

Comments: Bossily buoyant. Loses in delicacy what it gains in flavour and texture. Miles away from the Lowlands.

Overall score

8.2

Chieftain's
1985, Aged 16 Years

ABV 43%

Comments: A northern monster in which Scapa's lusciousness is left as texture with the sherry having a greater impact.

Overall score

7.8

Chieftain's
1982, Aged 19 Years, Sherry Butt

ABV 46%

Comments: Good, but it could be any heavily sherried malt. Lacks an individual personality.

Overall score

7.7

Chieftain's
1985, Aged 16 Years

ABV 43%

Comments: Attractive rather than complex, but very attractive at that.

Overall score

8.7

Clan Campbell
8 Years Old

ABV 40%

Comments: Lacks direction and energy. A simple starter for a malt novice but I'd rather have a good blend.

Overall score

6.9

Compass Box
Eleuthera

ABV 46%

Comments: Hold your glass to your ear and listen to water lapping against the tarred boat hull.

Overall score

8.4

Glenmorangie
1991, Sauternes Wood Finish

ABV 46%

Comments: Not easy to evaluate what sauternes casks have brought in. An extra sweetness maybe but no particular sauternes aromas. Appreciable bottling strength.

Overall score

7.7

Gordon & MacPhail
1987

ABV 40%

Comments: All the qualities of this distillery: fragrance, good feel, little smoke but not one of the best.

Overall score

7.8

Gordon & MacPhail
1990

ABV 40%

Comments: Easy-going, but nothing to get too excited about.

Overall score

6.5

Gordon & MacPhail
1986

ABV 40%

Comments: Like drinking a ghost.

Overall score

6.9

Gordon & MacPhail
12 Years Old

ABV 40%

Comments: A great, light introduction for Islay virgins but best sipped neat.

Overall score

7.5

Gordon & MacPhail
12 Years Old

ABV 40%

Comments: Good balance and nice weight if a little woody.

Overall score

7.4

Gordon & MacPhail
12 Years Old

ABV 40%

Comments: Good introduction to Speyside's generosity. Especially if served with a crème brûlée.

Overall score

8.0

Gordon & MacPhail
12 Years Old

ABV 40%

Comments: Disappointingly on the wood side. For those who like it oaky!

Overall score

7.0

Johnnie Walker
15 Years Old, Pure Malt

ABV 43%

Comments: Neat, characterful and witty. Keeps the woody tones in the back.

Overall score

8.3

Knockdhu
23 Years Old, Cask Strength

ABV 57.4%

Comments: A classic friendly Speyside, well balanced and enjoying its maturity.

Overall score

8.2

Lombard
Anchor Bay

ABV 40%

Comments: A satisfying, nourishing, clean malt. But where is the bay?

Overall score

7.4

Lombard
Golden Harvest

ABV 40%

Comments: Lacks energy.

Overall score

6.6

Lombard
Smoking Ember

ABV 40%

Comments: A 'love it or hate it' islander. Bold and uncompromising. And so charming.

Overall score

8.0

Signatory
1981, Cask Strength

ABV 62.5%

Comments: Another Caol Ila? I like the softer, more succulent expression.

Overall score

7.8

Signatory
1976

ABV 58.2%

Comments: Extremely well balanced for such a venerable creature. Still, you have to love sherried malts to love this.

Overall score

8.5

Signatory
1985

ABV 58.4%

Comments: Big, gentle and attractive if you are a fan of old-style Aussie Chardonnay.

Overall score

7.8

Signatory
1978

ABV 59%

Comments: More body and richness than the '79. Still not a great warrior but a hearty fisherman.

Overall score

8.6

Signatory
1979

ABV 43%

Comments: A rather pleasant dram but a paler version of Port Ellen.

Overall score

7.7

Signatory
1989

ABV 43%

Comments: Inoffensive but not hugely exciting.

Overall score

7.4

Talisker
28 Years Old

ABV 43.3%

Comments: Amazingly little wood impact for a whisky of this age. Not the most robust Talisker but a cracker nonetheless.

Overall score

8.8

The Loch Fyne
Volume XI

ABV 57%

Comments: A loud lad whose tone needs softening.

Overall score

7.7

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Whisky Magazine 23

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