Whisky Magazine 27

Andrew Usher Amateur Blender Bunnahabhain Speyside Tasting

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Editor's Word From the Editor

By Mairi MacDonald

Musings with Michael Jackson Joe and the dragon Michael Jackson reports from the centre of the universe

By Michael Jackson

A Dram with Dave Broom The pleasure principle Dave Broom considers the reasons for whisky's lack of popularity among young people in norhern Europe, and what should be...

By Dave Broom

News Edinburgh's Whisky Fringe John Morton recounts his experience on the Royal Mile.

By John Morton

News The Bowmore 1964 Fino cask: a happy twist of fate Martine Nouet shares her impressions of three rare 1964 Bowmore releases

By Martine Nouet

Travel The spirit of country-and-western Jefferson Chase explains how you can't take the whisley out of country-and-western

By Jefferson Chase

Production Hey, big blender Marcin Miller visits Colin Scott, Master Blender at Chiva Brothers to learn about the subtle art of alchemy

By Marcin Miller

Production The godfather of blending Gavin. D. Smith examines the legacy of the philanthropic Andrew Usher and sons, blending pineers

By Gavin D. Smith

Travel Walk on the wild side Dave Broom and company survived a hike up the Paps of Jra to tell the tale. Just...

By Dave Broom

Production Bottling it up Martin Isark uncovers the conspiract: whisky does in fact evolve in the bottle, not just the barrel

By Martin Isark

Distillery Focus The softer side of Islay (Bunnahabhain) Bunnahabhain is the foil to Islay's claymore, finds Ian Buxton

By Ian Buxton

Production Golden promise Ian Wisniewski looks into that vital ingredient in whisky production so often overlooked-barley

By Ian Wisniewski

Food Spirit of inspiration Martine Nouet introduces two superb whisky recipes courtesy of innovators from the famous grouse experience and trhe Macallan

By Martine Nouet

Whisky & Culture Mistress of satire Jefferson Chase looks at a female writer and renowned wit not scared of a drop of more of the hard...

By Jefferson Chase

Column To the letter John Haydock is rather sharply reminded of his 'contractual obligations' to whisky Magazine

By John Haydock

Dave BroomWalk on the wild sideDave Broom and company survived a hike up the Paps of Jra to tell the...

Ian BuxtonThe softer side of Islay (Bunnahabhain)Bunnahabhain is the foil to Islay's claymore, finds Ian Buxton

Jefferson ChaseMistress of satireJefferson Chase looks at a female writer and renowned wit not scared of a drop...

John HaydockTo the letterJohn Haydock is rather sharply reminded of his 'contractual obligations' to whisky Magazine

Martin IsarkBottling it upMartin Isark uncovers the conspiract: whisky does in fact evolve in the bottle, not just...

Michael JacksonJoe and the dragonMichael Jackson reports from the centre of the universe

Mairi MacDonaldFrom the Editor

Marcin MillerHey, big blenderMarcin Miller visits Colin Scott, Master Blender at Chiva Brothers to learn about the subtle...

John MortonEdinburgh's Whisky FringeJohn Morton recounts his experience on the Royal Mile.

Martine NouetSpirit of inspirationMartine Nouet introduces two superb whisky recipes courtesy of innovators from the famous grouse experience...

Gavin D. SmithThe godfather of blendingGavin. D. Smith examines the legacy of the philanthropic Andrew Usher and sons, blending pineers

Ian WisniewskiGolden promiseIan Wisniewski looks into that vital ingredient in whisky production so often overlooked-barley

Adelphi
16 Years Old

ABV 57.9%

Comments: This bottling does not have the heathery profile of the official bottlings. Drink with water.

Overall score

8.2

Adelphi
31 Years Old

ABV 57.8%

Comments: Like a maiden aunt. It's hard to believe that after 31 years in cask it's still this strength!

Overall score

8.3

anCnoc
12 Years Old

ABV 40%

Comments: Quite characterful and cheerful, especially on the nose. Try it with a fruit pudding.

Overall score

7.5

Blackadder
1988

ABV 59.4%

Comments: Nose better than palate. A tired cask?

Overall score

6.9

Blackadder
1992

ABV 60%

Comments: Far from Rosebank at its best. Fiery.

Overall score

7.0

Cadenhead's
1986, 16 Years Old

ABV 61.9%

Comments: Builds from a slightly disappointing nose to a solid sweet palate.

Overall score

7.3

Cadenhead's
1977, 24 Years Old

ABV 46%

Comments: Clean, dry. Perfectly drinkable.

Overall score

7.6

Chieftain's
Aged 18 Years, Sherry Wood

ABV 46%

Comments: A distinguished expression of sweet Oloroso, even if it seems a bit ostentatious on the palate. For afterdinner enjoyment.

Overall score

7.9

Chieftain's
Aged 13 Years

ABV 46%

Comments: So different to the Douglas Laing Clynelish. The perfect whisky with farm cheeses.

Overall score

7.9

Chieftain's
1991, Aged 11 Years, Sherry Finish

ABV 43%

Comments: Straight down the middle of the palate. A nice drink.

Overall score

7.7

Dufftown
15 Years Old

ABV 43%

Comments: A good, mid-weight nutty style.

Overall score

7.4

Glen Deveron
10 Years Old

ABV 40%

Comments: Decent run-of-the-mill style.

Overall score

6.5

Glen Moray
12 Years Old

ABV 40%

Comments: A sweet, soft and mellow fruitiness. Too much is too much sometimes.

Overall score

7.1

Glen Spey
12 Years Old

ABV 43%

Comments: A good, solid, bone-dry malt.

Overall score

7.4

Glenfiddich
12 Years Old, Special Reserve

ABV 40%

Comments: Easy-going, fresh and fruity, but the palate does not reflect the liveliness of the nose.

Overall score

7.2

Glenfiddich
Caoran Reserve, 12 Years Old

ABV 40%

Comments: A more sprightly Glenfiddich than the standard 12. Thirst-quenching. Peatiness and the smoked finish aren't as 'distinct' as the label suggests.

Overall score

7.5

Glenlossie
10 Years Old

ABV 45%

Comments: Attractive enough but hardly complex.

Overall score

7.1

Gordon & MacPhail
1993, Speymalt

ABV 40%

Comments: A lovely and quite complex range of flavours and textures. A palate whisky.

Overall score

7.8

Inchgower
14 Years Old

ABV 43%

Comments: A bit restrained initially, then unveils a charming vibrant sweetness. Well-balanced.

Overall score

7.6

James MacArthur's Old Masters
1992

ABV 58.5%

Comments: A two-sided malt, with two different expressions on the nose and on the palate. The alcohol needs to be tamed with water.

Overall score

7.6

James MacArthur's Old Masters
1986

ABV 51.3%

Comments: As refreshing as a herbal tea but much more rewarding and fulfilling. Would suit a leg of lamb with mint sauce.

Overall score

7.4

Knockando
1990

ABV 40%

Comments: Simple, attractive and easy-drinking.

Overall score

6.6

Linkwood
12 Years Old

ABV 43%

Comments: A classic example of a relatively light and fragrant whisky that has real complexity and a gorgeous feel. The perfect summertime dram.

Overall score

8.0

Mannochmore
Aged 12 Years

ABV 43%

Comments: A lovely sweet, frothy, summery dram.

Overall score

7.9

Montgomerie's
1989 Single Cask

ABV 46%

Comments: This is Macallan?? Either a peated experiment at the distillery or it's been filled into an ex-Caol Ila cask.

Overall score

7.9

Old Malt Cask
1978, 24 Years Old

ABV 50%

Comments: Promising nose. Palate hard to tame, disappointing.

Overall score

7.4

Old Malt Cask
1971, Aged 30 Years

ABV 50%

Comments: It's just too old and struggles to fight its way out of the wood.

Overall score

7.8

Old Malt Cask
Talisker, Aged 20 Years

ABV 50%

Comments: What is the point of this other than to prove that leaving Talisker in first-fill sherry casks for 20 years leads to oblivion?

Overall score

5.9

Pittyvaich
Aged 12 Years

ABV 43%

Comments: The richest by far, but all of it wood-driven.

Overall score

6.6

Signatory
1978, Port Wood

ABV 58%

Comments: Austere, pretty challenging. Finished, I suspect, to inject some fruity life into its dry bones.

Overall score

8.3

Speyburn
Aged 10 Years

ABV 40%

Comments: Quite a pleasant pre-dinner dram, with light nibbles perhaps. A little shy though. Would yield more at a higher alcoholic strength or in a few years.

Overall score

7.3

The Balvenie
PortWood 1989

ABV 40%

Comments: Not the depth of the PortWood 21 Years Old, but thoroughly enjoyable.

Overall score

7.8

The Glenlivet
Aged 12 Years

ABV 40%

Comments: A pleasant anytime dram. Very refreshing.

Overall score

7.8

Tomintoul
Aged 10 Years

ABV 40%

Comments: A bit disappointing.

Overall score

7.0

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Whisky Magazine 27

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