Whisky Magazine 28

Berlin bars William Teacher Auchentoshan Delme Evans

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Column The Miller's Tale

By Marcin Miller

Musings with Michael Jackson The man they couldn't invent Michael Jackson is under the gun with Booker Noe

By Michael Jackson

A Dram with Dave Broom A universal language Dave Broom considers some unprecedented parallels between Scotland and Jamaica, and how drink is the key to exploring new cultures

By Dave Broom

News An old con Dave Broom exposes the shady side of the antique, collectable whisky market\r

By Dave Broom

History Good Evans! William Delmé-Evans designed no less than three distilleries. Gavin D. Smith talked to him

By Gavin D. Smith

History Top of the class Tom Bruce-Gardyne examines the life and times of the determined, self-made whisky pioneer William Teacher

By Tom Bruce-Gardyne

Awards & Events Keeping it Live! What will make Whisky Live 2003 the event of the year

By Brigid James

Production Healthy Hart Tom Bruce-Gardyne reports on a firm which has flourished bottling fine single malts

By Tom Bruce-Gardyne

Bars Wunder bar Germany's capital city holds much to tempt the whisky-lover, as the Berlin-based Jefferson Chase explains

By Jefferson Chase

Distillery Focus Sights set high in the Lowlands (Auchentoshan) Ian Buxton provides a rare insight into a Lowland distillery not currently open to the public – Auchentoshan

By Ian Buxton

Production Maltsters Inc. Ian Wisniewski reveals the secrets behind this rather complex stage of whisky-making: malting

By Ian Wisniewski

Food Southern inspirations: cooking with bourbon Martine Nouet crosses the Atlantic to bring you some fine recipes using quality bourbons

By Martine Nouet

Whisky & Culture All in the game Jefferson Chase on William Kennedy's early novel about the struggle for survival in Depression-era New York

By Jefferson Chase

Column The Eighth Wonder John Haydock reflects on his many past and present glories

By John Haydock

Dave BroomAn old conDave Broom exposes the shady side of the antique, collectable whisky market\r

Tom Bruce-GardyneHealthy HartTom Bruce-Gardyne reports on a firm which has flourished bottling fine single malts

Ian BuxtonSights set high in the Lowlands (Auchentoshan)Ian Buxton provides a rare insight into a Lowland distillery not currently open to the...

Jefferson ChaseAll in the gameJefferson Chase on William Kennedy's early novel about the struggle for survival in Depression-era New York

John HaydockThe Eighth WonderJohn Haydock reflects on his many past and present glories

Michael JacksonThe man they couldn't inventMichael Jackson is under the gun with Booker Noe

Brigid JamesKeeping it Live!What will make Whisky Live 2003 the event of the year

Marcin MillerThe Miller's Tale

Martine NouetSouthern inspirations: cooking with bourbonMartine Nouet crosses the Atlantic to bring you some fine recipes using quality bourbons

Gavin D. SmithGood Evans!William Delmé-Evans designed no less than three distilleries. Gavin D. Smith talked to him

Ian WisniewskiMaltsters Inc.Ian Wisniewski reveals the secrets behind this rather complex stage of whisky-making: malting

Aberlour
10 Years Old

ABV 40%

Comments: Lacks integration with the wood. Like some middle-weight malts, it needs time to reach full maturity.

Overall score

7.6

Adelphi Clynelish
1989, 13 Years Old

ABV 56.7%

Comments: A light-bodied lovely outdoor dram, to serve with barbecued fish. Fresh like a sea-breeze.

Overall score

8.3

Blackadder
1990

ABV 58.5%

Comments: Young, easygoing, vibrant. Absolutely unfiltered judging by charcoal particles in the sample.

Overall score

8.2

Bunnahabhain
1968 Auld Aquaintance, Hogmanay Edition

ABV 43.8%

Comments: A brilliantly sunny winter's day; a walk by the sea in late afternoon; a dram at dusk. Still Bunnahabhain, but so different.

Overall score

8.5

Cadenhead's
1977, 21 Years Old

ABV 64.4%

Comments: Straightforward. Needs a splash of water, but much smoother than expected.

Overall score

7.5

Cadenhead's
1986, 15 Years Old

ABV 54%

Comments: A charming whisky, and a reminder that Glenturret is a place, not an experience.

Overall score

7.4

Cadenhead's
15 Years Old

ABV 62.4%

Comments: A tough guy exposing his complexity a bit too conspicuously. After dinner, with a cigar.

Overall score

7.9

Celtique Connexion
Braes of Glenlivet 1985

ABV 50%

Comments: The cask character somewhat dominates this zesty but delicate whisky.

Overall score

7.6

Celtique Connexion
1982

ABV 43%

Comments: A confusion of flavours that don't seem to have rounded in the cask

Overall score

8.3

Cragganmore
12 Years Old

ABV 40%

Comments: Balances richness and fragrance superbly.

Overall score

8.8

Dailuaine
16 Years Old

ABV 43%

Comments: Almost too perfect. Beautifully put together, but not quite memorable.

Overall score

7.6

Finlaggan
21 Years Old, Islay Malt

ABV 46%

Comments: Has mellowed with the extra years, but, as is sometimes the case with island malts, it seemed happier with the vigour of youth.

Overall score

7.7

Finlaggan
17 Years Old, Islay Malt

ABV 46%

Comments: Not as pungent as younger versions, but retains Islay character. Lovely fruit/smoke interplay.

Overall score

8.1

Glendullan
12 Years Old

ABV 43%

Comments: A son of the soil. I would like to pit its spicy flavours against a good haggis.

Overall score

7.7

Glenfarclas
Aged 15 Years

ABV 46%

Comments: Another that seems too young. Pent-up energy but no integration. Not the Glenfarclas 15 I know.

Overall score

7.4

Gordon & MacPhail
1973, Cask Strength

ABV 55.9%

Comments: Surprisingly vibrant for its age. There is a gap between the sharp nose and soothingly smooth palate. Water reconciles both. Would go well with a pear and almond pie.

Overall score

8.0

Gordon & MacPhail Rare Old
1965

ABV 40%

Comments: A breakfast whisky?

Overall score

7.2

Gordon & MacPhail Rare Old
1973

ABV 40%

Comments: Maturity improves it. Still needs rounding out, but less gauche than the distillery bottling.

Overall score

7.2

Longmorn
15 Years Old

ABV 45%

Comments: A cracker. Now Pernod will you please do what Seagram refused to do and start selling it (and Strathisla)?

Overall score

8.7

Mortlach
16 Years Old

ABV 43%

Comments: A great malt that is enigmatic and sometimes seems reclusive.

Overall score

8.1

Old Malt Cask
Aged 36 Years

ABV 49.3%

Comments: It's my first taste of North Port so I can't decide if the distillery character has been blurred or not by sherry. Like a bulldozer after an earthquake.

Overall score

7.2

The Balvenie
15 Years Old

ABV 50.4%

Comments: A subtle expression of The Balvenie.

Overall score

8.2

The Glenrothes
1989

ABV 43%

Comments: A very elegant, superbly balanced middle-weight dram.

Overall score

8.0

The Macallan
10 Years Old

ABV 40%

Comments: Good strong spirit that's in balance with the wood. Young but beginning to hit its stride.

Overall score

8.2

The Macallan
1937, 37 Years Old, Vintage

ABV 43%

Comments: A rich, smooth expression of The Macallan. Relatively light in colour. Seems stronger than it really is.

Overall score

8.8

The Macallan
1945, 56 Years Old, Vintage

ABV 51.5%

Comments: More of a spicy tendency than other versions.

Overall score

8.0

The Macallan
1949, 52 Years Old, Vintage

ABV 41.1%

Comments: Not much evidence of alcohol. Elegant but frail. Doesn't approach the 1948 I tasted a few years ago.

Overall score

8.1

The Macallan
1964, 37 Years Old, Vintage

ABV 58.6%

Comments: An odd Macallan. Light in colour. Quite aggressive, a spicy bite. Where is the elegance and roundness? Macallan on the dark side of the moon!

Overall score

7.4

The Macallan
1967, 35 Years Old, Vintage

ABV 56.3%

Comments: Quite a robust Macallan. Less delicate than the 1970 but in tune with the Macallan style.

Overall score

8.4

The Macallan
1970, 32 Years Old, Vintage

ABV 54.9%

Comments: A classic, classy Macallan with added richness. A splendid autumnal dram. Perfect match for dark chocolate cake.

Overall score

8.8

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Whisky Magazine 28

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