Whisky Magazine 4

Matthew Gloag Guide to Ardbeg Whisky and smoked salmon

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Editor's Word From the Editor

By Charles MacLean

Musings with Michael Jackson Whisky... it's not just for breakfast In the matter of marketing, Michael Jackson proposes that Scotland take a lesson from Florida

By Michael Jackson

Column Consultancy or scam? Jim Murray, spurred by a reader's letter, considers alleged conflicts of interest

By Jim Murray

History Tarry rope and smoked fish Might the revival of Ardbeg one day lead to the release of a new 10-year old? If so, would it...

By Neil Wilson

Whisky & Culture Scotch and the gumshoe When a blonde walks into a sleuth's office the first thing he does is reach for the whisky bottle. Jeff...

By Jeff Siegel

Distillery Focus Born again- and again and again (Benromach) Benromach Distillery reopened last year, for the sixth time in its hundred-year history. Jim Murray hopes that this time it's...

By Jim Murray

Production The elements of style part 2 In the second of his three-part series on what determines the character of malt whisky, Professor Alan Rutherford looks at...

By Alan Rutherford

People Learning to fly Grouse and the Gloags, part 1: Charles Maclean tells the history of a bird, a brand and a dynasty. For...

By Charles MacLean

People The great escape Grouse and the Gloags, part 2: Margaret Rand meets the current Matthew Gloag, who had escaped the corporate rat race...

By Margaret Rand

News Life and the liver Alcohol is not only good for you, says Dr Thomas Stutaford; it also used to be available on Britain's National...

Tastings The geography of taste In part four of his nosing course. Charles Maclean looks at how malts came to be classified by region

By Charles MacLean

Column Glenweevil an everyday story of distilling folk 4 The story so far: Kevin has been arrested for the theft of a lorryload of Glenweevil. The stolen whisky was...

Michael JacksonWhisky... it's not just for breakfastIn the matter of marketing, Michael Jackson proposes that Scotland take a lesson from Florida

Charles MacLeanThe geography of tasteIn part four of his nosing course. Charles Maclean looks at how malts came to...

Jim MurrayBorn again- and again and again (Benromach)Benromach Distillery reopened last year, for the sixth time in its hundred-year history. Jim Murray...

Margaret RandThe great escapeGrouse and the Gloags, part 2: Margaret Rand meets the current Matthew Gloag, who had...

Alan RutherfordThe elements of style part 2In the second of his three-part series on what determines the character of malt whisky,...

Jeff SiegelScotch and the gumshoeWhen a blonde walks into a sleuth's office the first thing he does is reach...

Neil WilsonTarry rope and smoked fishMight the revival of Ardbeg one day lead to the release of a new 10-year...

Drambuie
Black Ribbon, 15 Years Old

ABV 40%

Comments: Substantially darker, bigger, fruitier, drier, firmer, more structured and less syrupy than the Drambuie with the ribbon.

Overall score

5.3

Dufftown
15 Years Old

ABV 43%

Comments: An excellent aperitif malt.

Overall score

6.0

Glen Moray
Chardonnay Finish

ABV 40%

Comments: Hmmm. Not quite as well structured as I might have wished. I prefer the old Glen Moray to this, which has its moments, but tends to be a little awkward.

Overall score

7.3

Glen Moray
12 Years Old, Chenin Blanc Finish

ABV 40%

Comments: Glen Moray 12 Years Old used to be a bastion of ultra-malty simplicity. No more. Chenin Blanc barrels have added a delightful dimension.

Overall score

7.8

Glen Moray
16 Years Old, Chenin Blanc Finish

ABV 40%

Comments: Firmer and more assertive.

Overall score

8.0

Glendullan
12 Years Old

ABV 43%

Comments: A malt which has changed direction in recent years, probably because of the new stillhouse. It's nothing like as oily as of yore. The charm and delicacy more than make amends.

Overall score

8.3

Glenfiddich
15 Years Old, Solera Reserve

ABV 40%

Comments: A classic.

Overall score

8.8

Glenfiddich
18 Years Old, Ancient Reserve

ABV 43%

Comments: A wonderfully elegant whisky.

Overall score

8.3

Glenfiddich
Special Reserve

ABV 40%

Comments: Lean, smooth and appetising.

Overall score

7.3

Gordon & MacPhail
1960, Rare Old

ABV 40%

Comments: Convalmore was not the greatest malt when reasonably youthful. As a near 40 Years Old it has gained some tasty character, though most of it is of the bourbon variety.

Overall score

7.0

Highland Park
1958

ABV 44%

Comments: Some drinkers might perfer this great whisky slightly younger and fresher. Those who like a touch of oak will find this very elegant.

Overall score

8.0

Mortlach
1980, 17 Years Old, Cask Strength

ABV 63.1%

Comments: A big, rich interpretation; an outstanding digestif.

Overall score

7.8

Pittyvaich
Aged 12 Years

ABV 43%

Comments: A weird whisky all round. Pleasing character, but just doesn't feel right.

Overall score

6.3

Rare Malts Selection
Dufftown-Glenlivet, 1975, 21 Years Old

ABV 54.8%

Comments: Brilliant balance of barley sweetness and spice. A joy.

Overall score

8.0

Speyburn
1977, 21 Years Old

ABV 58.5%

Comments: Very restrained, but lovely gentle peat smoke.

Overall score

8.3

The Balvenie
10 Years Old, Founder's Reserve

ABV 43%

Comments: Balvenie has long been a favourite, and this expression is sublime. A riposte to any who claim that all Speysiders are much of a muchness.

Overall score

8.8

The Balvenie
15 Years Old, Single Barrel

ABV 50.4%

Comments: Arguably the ultimate Speyside dram, though the Glenfiddich Solera gives it a close run. A kaleidoscope of flavours.

Overall score

8.8

The Balvenie
12 Years Old, Double Wood

ABV 43%

Comments: A more intense malt than the Founder's Reserve. Despite its finesse, it is just shaded in regard to all-round complexity. Still nothing short of glorious.

Overall score

9.0

The Balvenie
Aged 21 Years, PortWood

ABV 40%

Comments: Bring on the petits-fours.

Overall score

8.5

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Whisky Magazine 4

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