Whisky Magazine 5

Guide to Tobermory Milroys of Soho Whisky and Fish

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Editor's Word From the Editor

By Charles MacLean

Musings with Michael Jackson Obsession Whisky is for sniffing, drinking and dabbing your ears, Michael Jackson explains, Calvin Klein would understand.

By Michael Jackson

Column An illusion of quality Even Jim Murray can be fooled into thinking a whisky is better than it is

By Jim Murray

Bars Trainspotting (Palace on Wheels) India's luxury train the Palace on Wheels, has a bar that's open all day, every day, and whiskies that bill...

By Kevin Pilley

Distillery Focus The several lives of Tobermory Tobermory distillery has made whisky for only 14 of the last 69 years- and its incarnations have included a blend...

By Tom Bruce-Gardyne

Cocktails The gentle art of mixing Jonathon Goodall investigates whisky cocktails and finds a way of using up these unwanted dregs of single malt

By Jonathon Goodall

Food Is this a tortilla chip I see before me? Brian Hennigan reports groundbreaking research into one of the vital questions of life

By Brian Hennigan

Production The elements of style part 3 Part three maturation In the third and final part of his series on what influences the flavour of malt whisky,...

By Alan Rutherford

Collections The go between Angela Muir MW goes in search of those most elusive of creatures, whisky brokers, and finds them constantly slipping fron...

By Angela Muir

Food Fast fish We sent chef Christian Delteil some whisky, and he invented some recipes for us. That took all of 20 minutes....

By Margaret Rand

Whisky & Culture The start of a habit Does Ardbeg go best with a Bolivar? And what might happen if youbegan a corona gigantes before dinner? Chris Orr...

By Chris Orr

History The refashioning of history Charles Maclean examines the curious story of Clan Campbell and its acquired pedigree

By Charles MacLean

People Men behaving well (Jack and Wallace Milroy) Joanna Simon meets Jack and Wallace Milroy, single malt whisky pioneers, and finds them refusing ot live up to their reputations

By Joanna Simon

News Killing two birds with one stone. How do you support rugby and introduce two million Chinese to the phrase 'Famous Grouse' at the same time? Richard...

By Richard Bath

Tastings Sugar and spice and all things nice In the final part of his nosing course, Charles Maclean suggests that classifying malts by region has little meaning classification...

By Charles MacLean

Column Glenweevil an everyday story of distilling folk 5 The story so far: Kevin accidentally stole a lorryload of Glenweenvil, and had to hide it at the distillery. The...

By Andrew Mcvie

Richard BathKilling two birds with one stone.How do you support rugby and introduce two million Chinese to the phrase 'Famous Grouse'...

Tom Bruce-GardyneThe several lives of TobermoryTobermory distillery has made whisky for only 14 of the last 69 years- and its...

Jonathon GoodallThe gentle art of mixingJonathon Goodall investigates whisky cocktails and finds a way of using up these unwanted...

Brian HenniganIs this a tortilla chip I see before me?Brian Hennigan reports groundbreaking research into one of the vital questions of life

Michael JacksonObsessionWhisky is for sniffing, drinking and dabbing your ears, Michael Jackson explains, Calvin Klein would understand.

Charles MacLeanThe refashioning of historyCharles Maclean examines the curious story of Clan Campbell and its acquired pedigree

Andrew McvieGlenweevil an everyday story of distilling folk 5The story so far: Kevin accidentally stole a lorryload of Glenweenvil, and had to hide...

Angela MuirThe go betweenAngela Muir MW goes in search of those most elusive of creatures, whisky brokers, and...

Jim MurrayAn illusion of qualityEven Jim Murray can be fooled into thinking a whisky is better than it is

Chris OrrThe start of a habitDoes Ardbeg go best with a Bolivar? And what might happen if youbegan a corona...

Kevin PilleyTrainspotting (Palace on Wheels)India's luxury train the Palace on Wheels, has a bar that's open all day, every...

Margaret RandFast fishWe sent chef Christian Delteil some whisky, and he invented some recipes for us. That...

Alan RutherfordThe elements of style part 3Part three maturation In the third and final part of his series on what influences...

Joanna SimonMen behaving well (Jack and Wallace Milroy)Joanna Simon meets Jack and Wallace Milroy, single malt whisky pioneers, and finds them refusing...

Blackadder
Single Orcadian Scotch Malt Whisky

ABV 58%

Comments: There is no mention as to whether this is Scapa or Highland Park, but this cannot be anything other than the elder statesman of the two. This is uncompromising, ultra-rich from the old school. A real stunner.

Overall score

7.8

Gordon & MacPhail
1987

ABV 43%

Comments: Gordon and MacPhail has been the purveyor of Scapa's excellent malt far longer than owners Allied, which was slow to wake up to its allure. However, this is not its finest bottling and lacks that lovely cocoa depth of yore.

Overall score

7.8

Highland Park
12 Years Old

ABV 40%

Comments: A beautifully balance classic islander.

Overall score

8.8

Highland Park
18 Years Old

ABV 43%

Comments: If I smoked I would have a cigar with this one.

Overall score

9.3

Highland Park
25 Years Old

ABV 48.1%

Comments: Have this one with dessert.

Overall score

9.0

Highland Park
1977, Bicentenary Vintage Reserve

ABV 46%

Comments: A rugged expression that lacks the usual complexity but makes up for it with depth and length. A beauty.

Overall score

9.0

Isle of Jura
10 Years Old

ABV 40%

Comments: A lovely aperitif.

Overall score

7.5

Murray McDavid
1979

ABV 46%

Comments: A pretty old and slightly tired malt but the richness of the peat and malt, and the harmony they create, makes this a delicious dram. Big stuff.

Overall score

8.5

Old Malt Cask
1988, Aged 10 Years

ABV 50%

Comments: Only the fabulous honey-peat core saves this from being something of a disappointment. I have always felt the Highland Park is a malt that suffers at the hands of a sherry cask and this sample, while having one or two fabulous moments, rather proves the p

Overall score

7.8

Rare Malts Selection
1974, 23 Years Old

ABV 60.8%

Comments: Extremely high quality expression from an ill-served distillery.

Overall score

8.0

Rare Malts Selection
28 Years Old

ABV 58.4%

Comments: An elegant middleweight after the oak-fisted heavyweight 23 Years Old in the same series.

Overall score

8.3

Rare Malts Selection
19 Years Old

ABV 61%

Comments: Some malts are deservedly rare, but full marks to United for at least giving us the chance to taste them.

Overall score

6.0

Rare Malts Selection
20 Years Old

ABV 60.9%

Comments: Bring on the caeser salad.

Overall score

9.0

Scapa
12 Years Old

ABV 43%

Comments: Scapa can seem a delicate whisky, but it is full of flavours, and deserves its growing following.

Overall score

8.5

Talisker
1986, The Distiller's Edition

ABV 45.8%

Comments: Not for Talisker purists, but a highly distinctive interplay of whisky and sherry.

Overall score

7.5

Talisker
10 Years Old

ABV 45.8%

Comments: Always a classic, though I still miss the 8 Years Old.

Overall score

9.3

The Arran Malt
4 Years Old

ABV 43%

Comments: A lovely whisky for one so young. What will it be like at two or three times this age?

Overall score

7.5

The Scotch Malt Whisky Society
4.57 – Brimstone & Treacle, 9 Years Old

ABV 59.5%

Comments: A light-coloured young malt which thanks to the peat notes suggests Highland Park or maybe Ledaig. The sweetness tends to point the Orkneys. Unusual, very tasty and great fun. Don't know about the 'Brimstone and Treacle', though.

Overall score

7.8

Tobermory
Single Malt

ABV 40%

Comments: A rare chance to taste a malt that is not so much youthful as pre-pubescent. Really pleasant and full-flavoured for all that.

Overall score

7.3

Wild Turkey
8 Years Old, 101

ABV 50.5%

Comments: A drier version of the old No. 8 101 brand, with the honey trademark keeping a low profile. Not quite so complex but a sturdy bourbon for all that.

Overall score

8.5

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Whisky Magazine 5

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