Production

The Irish Revolution

There is a lot going on in Ireland at the moment, we summarise the recent developments
By Rob Allanson
To say that Irish whiskey is experiencing something of a revival is pretty much an understatement. We will probably not see the level of distilleries return to where it was in the 1800s, when more than 2,000 distilleries were reputed to have dotted the landscape; but it certainly seems everyone now wants a piece of the Irish action.

With the main four, Jameson, Bushmills, Tullamore and Cooley, already in the hands of large companies, the revival Ireland is experiencing is really coming from a craft ethos echoing the boom time grassroots movement in the United States. This does not necessarily equate to poor quality or small ambitions, with most of the current crop of start ups ebullient about the market and looking to punch above their weight.

There is certainly plenty of movement with companies aiming to capitalise on the growth, with some returning to their roots. One big piece of news is that we might in the near future see a return to distilling in Dublin with the Teeling Whisky Company. Whiskey from the capital used to be such a revered thing many years ago, more popular than Midleton whiskey, it is exciting to think there could be a renaissance.

Also with Alltech reconnecting with distilling in Ireland and Tullamore on the brink of opening a new distillery in the town, provenance of place is fast becoming a watchword in Irish whiskey. The big battle ground at the moment, and the place where Irish whiskey is seeing some of its biggest growths is in America.

Figures released by the Distilled Spirits Council of the United States show that Irish whiskey climbed 24 per cent to 1.7 million nine-litre cases last year.

In contrast, Scotch single-malt whisky sales increased around 9.5 per cent to 1.4 million cases. Clearly Irish whiskey is taking the lead back from Scotch in the U. S. territories. Surely all good news for the Irish economy, especially when you consider that Irish liquor exports amounted to about €1 billion in 2010.

There are three main projects starting up that will be worth keeping an eye on; these are the ones that have provenance and are clearly in the game already.



A RETURN TO DUBLIN



THE TEELING WHISKEY COMPANY

Founded by former Cooley employees Jack Teeling and Alex Chasko, the Teeling Whiskey Company has ambitious plans and some serious whiskeys in its arsenal.

It launched its first Irish whiskey last year called Hybrid, which comprises single malt whiskey from Cooley Distillery in Ireland and single malt whisky from Bruichladdich in Scotland. The two have been blended in oak barrels for eight years.

However the company plans to release a series of premium aged products aimed at offering consumers new experiences and sensations of Irish whiskey.

Jack takes up the story: "I have some parcels of mature stock, some very old, and some maturing. As part of a brand offering I wanted to try to broaden the category of Irish whiskey.

"I see what we are offering is a ladder of discovery for those who have not really explored the Irish whiskey category, or even for people to find new levels of enjoyment in the blends and single malt categories.

"We intend to release several whiskies including a premium blend matured in rum casks. With the other whiskies we have, we will be aiming for the white noise space in the mature age category; a 21, a 25 and 30 Years Old." More excitingly than this, Jack has signalled his intent to return distilling to Dublin by building a distillery in the city at some point in the near future.

He explains: "There was a John Teeling who was distilling in Dublin around 1782. Dublin whiskey was once a really big thing. Distilling is coming back to urban locations, and a medium sized site would be perfect, but I want to make sure I have the brands so that any production can then just plug into. People are looking for the next whiskey, the next flavour and we need to keep the category going."



BRINGING WHISKEY HOME



ALLTECH AND CARLOW BREWERY

Another project to get off the ground and on stream is American distiller Alltech and its partnership with renowned craft brewers Carlow Brewing Co.

The company, which already produces Bourbon at its distillery in Kentucky, flew Vendome made stills from Louisville to Ireland and is expecting to have its first Irish whiskey ready in about three years time.

Master distiller and chief engineer Mark Coffman said the move was partly taken by the increase of interest in Irish Whiskey. He added: "It is in part, but it is important to note Alltech president and founder Pearce Lyons wants to bring back home to Ireland what is part of his heritage with his family roots being coopers. Then once it was announced that Beam Global had bought the Kilbeggan Group (Cooley's) we ordered two stills from Vendome Copper and Brass Works in Louisville, Kentucky so that there could be another independently owned distillery in Ireland."

As the partnership grows with Carlow, Alltech is also keeping an eye on the future.

Mark continued: "This is a very good partnership between both Alltech and The Carlow Brewing Company. I am sure we will need to address the needs of expansion and we should be considering a more permanent location in the near future. Something that will lend itself to be an area close to a tourist attraction." The company also plans to keep its wood policy inhouse, with a supply chain of seasoned barrels coming from Kentucky. Interestingly, for the company's bourbons and now its Irish whiskey stocks, the casks will have been previously used for beer.

Mark added: "With one of our most popular beer products being Kentucky Bourbon Barrel Ale, we are able to use a high percentage of these former bourbon barrels, after aging our ale in them, for both our Pearce Lyons Reserve and now for setting down our Irish whiskey.

"We have found the ale has a unique taste with a slight sweetness that makes this a pretty attractive product."

Education also features high on the company's agenda with a strong link between its employees and the Brewing and Distilling course held at Heriott-Watt University in Scotland. The company also plans to hold a Craft Brewing and Distilling class in Ireland in the summer of 2013.



RETURN TO ROOTS



TULLAMORE DEW

Another place where distilling is set to return to its roots is at Tullamore in Co. Offaly. William Grant recently announced it was to build a €35m distillery to secure supply for the Tullamore Dew brand it acquired three years ago.

The company has already revamped the visitor centre in the village.

Distilling stopped in Tullamore in 1954, Grants are expecting that the 58 acre Clonminch site just outside Tullamore town, will be up and running in 2014, handily marking the end of a 60 year dry spell of production in the area.

Grants will be hoping that with a distillery re-established at the town it can boost its provenance credentials.

Sales of the brand have already pushed up from 600,000 cases to nearly 700,000 as interest in Irish whiskey increases.