Taster

Nose: Disappointingly closed and missing that rich, slightly honeyed magic of old. A dull oakiness is OTT.

Palate: Closer to its lovely old self, but still clouded by a chalky oakiness which dulls the richer, ultra-malty, notes.

Finish: Still out of sync. The oak seems to contain something too austere.

Comment: I am sure this is a wood problem: nearly two full marks down on its score from three years ago. What a massive disappointment.

Score: 6.5

Taster

Nose: Appetisingly fresh, both in its characteristic maltiness and its faint peat.

Palate: Creamy. Condensed milk. Horlicks. Malt.

Finish: Nice balance of estery, lemony fruitiness and a drying touch of peat.

Comment: Slightly less richness and wood-extract than in the 12, with which I am more familiar.

Score: 7.5