Taster

Nose: Altogether richer, more strident and confident. The wine effect is astonishing: sweet, overripe grapes balanced by a fabulous malty echo. Intriguingly smoky, too.

Palate: Soft and velvety on the palate. Charming spicy notes add to a complexity unusual for a Glen Moray.

Finish: Soft cocoa notes and some drying oak. The winey effect seems to linger while the spice battles to the end.

Comment: Glen Moray 12 Years Old used to be a bastion of ultra-malty simplicity. No more. Chenin Blanc barrels have added a delightful dimension.

Score: 8

Taster

Nose: Pears, walnuts, fresh oak.

Palate: Pears in cream; late, lively, peachy fruitiness. Garden mint

Finish: Raisiny, also resiny. Fresh oak, soothing warmth.

Comment: Smooth body, beeswax-like. The wine adds an element, but many loyalists will miss the previous version.

Score: 7.5