Taster

Nose: Straight from the kiln. Sooty. Haddocky. Sea spray. Bog myrtle. Apples cooked under ashes. Seductive.

Palate: You get what you nose but in a tame manner. Smoked sea-scallops, salted buttered fudge.

Finish: Firm and crisp, reluctantly fading away like the sun sinking into the sea.

Comment: A 'love it or hate it' islander. Bold and uncompromising. And so charming.

Score: 9

Taster

Nose: Immediate robust peatiness: tar, creosote, spent barbecue, sand dunes, tarry twine and a smokehouse jammed full of herring.

Palate: Everything the nose suggests but water dissipates its flavours rather than bringing them out, showing a lack of mid-palate richness.

Finish: Rooty, smoky with some nice oily qualities.

Comment: The name says it all. Big and bold but it's all smoke and no trousers.

Score: 7