Taster

Nose: Slightly stony, with smoked meat, juniper, aniseed, rock pools, wet face cloth and paint thinner (??!). Clean, assertive with a little immaturity.

Palate: Very dusty start. Coal shovel, damp nutty slack, zesty, wet rope. Bigger than you'd expect, but a little one-dimensional.

Finish: Crisp, phenolic.

Comment: A slap in the face with a wet haddock.

Score: 7.9

Taster

Nose: Burnt sticks, lemon flavoured toilet cleaner (in a good way), and tarry rope.

Palate: A big, sweet, citric peat-boff, followed by a whiplash of dry, moreish ropiness.

Finish: Storm-lashed rope.

Comment: You can see why the Germans get so obsessed with this stuff. A peaty happy-slap.

Score: 8.3