Taster

Nose: Gorgeously fruity. Chargrilled peaches and apricots. Grass and tangerine leaves. Resin and honey. A beautiful day in a summer meadow. Water brings out sandalwood.

Palate: Juicy orange oils and those stone fruits resting on a slate floor, with softer sweet notes including nutmeg and soft brown sugar. I love the waxy texture.

Finish: Fresh fruit gives way to oven-baked peaches sprinkled in nutmeg.

Comment: There’s a lot to love here – the fruity characters, complexity and texture add up to a satisfying whole.

Score: 9.2

Taster

Nose: Incredible waves of plum jam, blood oranges and dried fruits, with vanilla and mixed peel. Settles down to Christmas cake territory, with a little citric bitterness.

Palate: More sedate than the nose promised. Firmly in fruit territory, with blackberries, raspberries and occasionally drifting into Ribena. Then bitter woodiness. Thin texture.

Finish: Short, with echoes of both dark and dried fruits, but the flavour leaves quickly.

Comment: Fun. Fruitier than Fifty Shades – consequently it ends up being just too one-sided.

Score: 7.1