Taster

Nose: Aromas of Jamaican gingerbread, funky farmyard (similar to Brettanomyces), rubber and orange juice mingle with sea breeze and sticking plasters.

Palate: Initially soft and sweet, with juicy orange, nutmeg, powdered cinnamon and ginger, before a salt-lined stick of charcoal draws a line across the palate. Pine resin and Szechuan pepper pop up too.

Finish: The gingerbread cake makes a comeback, with 70 per cent dark chocolate.

Comment: The nose is a little peculiar at first, but the solid flavours put those doubts to rest.

Score: 8

Taster

Nose: Lively. A contrast between sharp red fruits and gentle smokiness. Very coastal, with citrus and a hint of nutmeg. Coal dust. Once it’s faded, notes of vanilla and strawberry jam.

Palate: Cinnamon up-front, with acidic, tart redcurrant and a slightly charred, bitter-smoke sensation rather than sweet-peat. Sun-dried tomatoes and oranges, suddenly tropical. Salty.

Finish: Woody, spicy, ashy. But there’s just something a bit lopsided about it all.

Comment: Brave, but the puckering acidity and ashy smoke don’t sit too well together.

Score: 7.9