Taster

Nose: A rock pool by the shore.

Palate: Soft, clean, sweet, becoming sandy, salty and spicy. Huge flavour development. Beautifully structured.

Finish: Lemon zest. Fresh limes. Lively. Irrepressible.

Comment: I shall try this in a Caipirinha, with a CD of Annie Ross at her peak.

Score: 8.3

Taster

Nose: Gentle and soft. Sweet oak, flowers, vanilla, nutmeg, dried apple, apricot. Water brings out more toasty notes, hazelnut and milk chocolate.

Palate: Rounded and creamy, with a subtle interplay between vanilla-like oak, macaroon bars, nut and fruit.

Finish: Fresh and crisp.

Comment: What is it about Islay whiskies in their mid-teens? A masterclass in subtlety.

Score: 8.8