Taster

Nose: Winey and rich, softly oaked with an almost oily peatiness. Fabulous heathery depth with an almost flower-scented sweetness, this is the kind of malt that would send bees into a frenzy.

Palate: Fabulously fat and oily and then a massive wave of intensely sweet malt followed by wave upon wave of the most gentle peat. Thick, intense, uncompromising and chewy.

Finish: Long, peaty and intense with heather and oak. Some late cocoa adds further depth.

Comment: There is no mention as to whether this is Scapa or Highland Park, but this cannot be anything other than the elder statesman of the two. This is uncompromising, ultra-rich from the old school. A real stunner.

Score: 8.5

Taster

Nose: Faintly sulphury peat. Burnt grass. Lemon grass.

Palate: Syrupy and remarkably lemony.

Finish: Sherbert lemons. Sweet red peppers.

Comment: Weak in the middle. Lacks roundness.

Score: 7