Taster

Nose: Luscious Tiramisu made with chocolate sponge soaked in espresso, dark cherries soaked in Madeira. Kumquat and \ncrystalised ginger.

Palate: Heavily polished ancestral furniture with the richness of PX sherry. Bitter dark chocolate and warm pigskin gloves. Dried mango, Ras el Hanout and paprika.

Finish: Cocoons the tongue with velvet.

Comment: It feels old but not fragile.

Score: 8.6

Taster

Nose: Wintery and bold notes aplenty. Toasted nuts, figs, spicy red fruit, possibly a glass or two of vintage port too. Postprandial indeed.

Palate: Mouthcoating, dry, but fruity, spicy and rich. A monster of a palate, with a blast of orange zest for good measure. The oak has given this perfect ageing and complexity.

Finish: Lengthy and spicy. The richness of the nose is amplified here and seems to last for ages.

Comment: I'm all for drinking light and refreshing whiskies as a highball or with ice; but adulterate this gem and I'll come looking for you. Magnificent.

Score: 9