Taster

Nose: Sulphur at first, shades of brimstone to this. Black Sea soap bars. Bovril and a meaty edge, roast beef, gravy and roasted chestnut stuffing. Sweetness from chocolate coated raisins and black treacle.

Palate: Very rich dark chocolate, plenty of savoury notes here. Roasted burnt ends with bbq sauce. Ripe figs stuffed with blue goat’s cheese. There’s a hint of sweetness too.

Finish: Very short, cinder toffee with very dark chocolate.

Comment: Serious sherry influence here, but the sulphur punches a little too much for me.

Score: 7.8

Taster

Nose: A little smokiness. Burned edges of an apple pie. Vanilla, custard biscuits and gently simmering caramel.

Palate: Opens up really gently, with lightly stewed pears – smoke then comes through, but it's sweet, then ashy.

Finish: Middling-length, yet an ash does hold around the back of the mouth for an age.

Comment: Smokey and little too much so for my taste. There's the promise of a gem hidden beneath that.

Score: 7.4