Taster

Nose: An immediate and huge hit of phenols combined with rich fruit cake. Dubbin and peat oil. Cocoa powder with water there's a hint of petrol and saltiness.

Palate: Eruption of smoke just held in check by crisp oakiness. The peat then wriggles back like a smoked eel bringing with it a gentle fruit.

Finish: Salty. Yes SALTY!

Comment: Complex stuff going on here. A really rewarding Port Ellen.

Score: 8.5

Taster

Nose: A combination of baked pear and pineapple fruitiness, with old and complex phenols rumbling beneath. More apparent with water, with tinned fish and some smoked meat. Lemon biscuits.

Palate: Fruit syrup, raisins and a little sulphur. Phenolic too, with dentist's mouthwash and a little of that canned brine. Some dry oak.

Finish: Salty and drying.

Comment: Confidentially and quietly smoky, this is a lovely example of this elegant old Islay.

Score: 9