Taster

Nose: Fondant icing. Porridge, wet clay, chalk dust, and grassy, hay-like notes. Subtle fresh blueberry, winter melon, and green mango notes. Underneath, some bread dough and subtle vanilla.

Palate: Light-medium. Delicate white grape juice, elderflower, white bread, honeydew melon, and rice cakes. A little white sesame seed and golden syrup. A rum-like grassiness. It’s spirit-led.

Finish: Medium-short. A sweet cereal note, like popcorn with powdered sugar, emerges.

Comment: What seemed simple at first yields real complexity. Will divide opinion.

Score: 8.1

Taster

Nose: Freshly mown grass, dried chamomile flowers, subtle tinned pear, and a meaty hint of mushroom and beef stock. Oil paints on canvas, planed oak, and a hint of plasticine.

Palate: Light-medium bodied. Sweeter grain note, like puffed-rice cereal. A little fresh peach and honeydew melon. Waxy apple. Pear skin, freshly peeled. Chocolate-dipped malted milk biscuits.

Finish: Medium-long. Pear juice and marshmallow puffed-rice cereal bar.

Comment: We’re having a fresh-fruit party in the school art room.

Score: 8.3