Taster

Nose: Overripe, fermenting pineapple. Flour, water, and yeast. Subtle herbs: clapped basil and thyme. Subtle violin rosin and the pear drop of higher alcohols. Under this, malt powder and lime zest.

Palate: Medium. Basil and thyme. Rice paper and sourdough. Concentrated, zingy citrus fruits, like overripe lemons and limes. It dilutes on the palate and white chocolate emerges, then becomes oily.

Finish: Medium. On white chocolate and sesame oil, veering close to pork fat.

Comment: A complex and evolving older dram at perfect drinking strength.

Score: 8.7

Taster

Nose: Mahogany candle, rich vanilla crème brûlée, and peach iced tea. Hints of raw cup mushroom and dried thyme. Baked apricot and nectarine, and a little grapefruit peel. Raw sponge cake batter.

Palate: Full. Fresh herbs, notably oregano and sage. Cooked courgette, aubergine, and caramelised onion. Then pumpernickel bread, sweet black tea, toffee sauce, and gingersnap biscuit.

Finish: Medium. Buttery coconut cookie, moving into shortbread, and more herbal spice.

Comment: Deliciously complex, with lots of lovely things to explore.

Score: 8.5