Taster

Nose: Immediately smoky. Fish boxes and brine. Higher alcohol increases the feeling of rigidity, but it needs water to soften things.

Palate: Oily phenols hit home. Quite tarry. Without water its rather dusty and dry, with it though there's caramelised scallops.

Finish: Long, a little metallic.

Comment: A big playfight on Port Ellen beach after closing time.

Score: 7.8

Taster

Nose: Grassy, peaty, citrussy. Thick smoke wraps up seashells and green seaweeds Coal tar.

Palate: Sweet to start even at full strength. Milk chocolate, lemon pulp released in a wave of freshness. Water enhances a bitter edge.

Finish: Dry, chewed rush.

Comment: Alcohol is so well tamed. A fully Islay vatted malt. Vatted, really? More a single than a vatted. Or an Ardbeg vatted with a Laphroaig?

Score: 8.3