Taster

Nose: Dry meadow grasses, heathery smoke from a distant peat fire. Fruit. With water, bosky: privet blossom/box hedge/yew. Lean.

Palate: Medium-bodied with better weight than expected. A teasing mix of dry sides, oily middle and smoky finish, all beautifully integrated. Smoke rounds it out rather than dries it up.

Finish: Smoky and slightly oily.

Comment: A big package, yet quite restrained.

Score: 7.8

Taster

Nose: Grassy dunes, the seashore, seaweed on a gusty day.

Palate: Powerful. Pronounced peatiness. Vegetal, but pleasantly so (salsify?). Peppery. Mustardy.

Finish: Iodine. Medicinal.

Comment: Every time I pick up the glass, I find new flavours. A Scottish aquavit to send the Danes packing.

Score: 8.8