Taster

Nose: First, smoky bacon crisps. Iberico ham, ancho chilli, and rye crackers. Then clove-studded orange, prunes, and apple and blackcurrant cordial. A little wet grain and burnt rubber.

Palate: Orange polenta cake with lashings of caramel. Woody vanilla. Clove and black pepper spice. Oyster mushroom and a pinch of dried, smoky chilli. Raspberry compote and dried mango.

Finish: Medium-long, on soy sauce, grassy spice, orange zest, and a hint of dark chocolate.

Comment: A lovely interplay of sweet and savoury that evolves as it sits.

Score: 8.4

Taster

Nose: At first, burning rubber or car clutch, blue cheese and silage. Under it, honey-roasted almonds, rye cake, overripe pineapple, unwashed coffee bean, cured ham, sourdough starter, coal dust, milk chocolate and prunes in syrup.

Palate: Pistachio butter, a touch of Époisses funk, and coffee cake. Candied ginger, Medjool date, chocolate brownie with tahini. A little beetroot and creamed celeriac earthiness. Tropical fruit drink.

Finish: Long. Forest fruits and chocolate.

Comment: With time in the glass, swung from giving me the ick to being lovely.

Score: 8.5