Taster

Nose: Packs a punch. BBQ sweetcorn, smoked sea salt and paprika pork chops. Then the wood, bags of oak, sawmills in the height of summer, cedar blocks. Then a gentle menthol note, linen bandages and witch hazel.

Palate: Black cherries and very dark chocolate. Treacle cakes and cinder toffee bars. Aromatic lamb. Spices build and wood tannins take hold.

Finish: Long and punchy – keeps on giving and never lets go.

Comment: Only one word: gorgeous.

Score: 9.3

Taster

Nose: Sugary sweet with rhubarb crumble, cherries in kirsch syrup, geranium leaves and a paper bag full of rum 'n’ raisin fudge. Tingling spices with star anise rounding it all up.

Palate: Star anise, sandalwood, crushed fennel seeds and toasted chilli flakes. Eventually a creaminess joins with melted butter and toffee popcorn.

Finish: That long, dry texture at the back of the throat when you’re in the sauna.

Comment: Sweet, spicy, creamy, spicy, sweet, spicy, creamy, spicy… you get the idea.

Score: 9.2