Taster

Nose: Dry and dark smoked notes, followed by sticky toffee pudding sponge and then an interesting briney hint, supported by lemon zest.

Palate: The smokiness continues, subtle and dry. The sticky toffee notes are more developed, with chunks of date. Malted milk biscuits appear, with a hint of clove and lemon zest.

Finish: Earthy smoke leads, supported by the malted milk and dried fruit notes on a long finish.

Comment: If you’re all about the smoked life, you’ll love this. It’s a great example of not being afraid to be bold.

Score: 8.4

Taster

Nose: Smoked candied orange, creamy custard, poached pear with caramel sauce, pencil shavings and eraser rubbings. Digestive biscuit and buttered toast. Wood smoke. Clove and liquorice root.

Palate: Medium. Very hot. Wood smoke and some sultana. With water, the heat reduces. A mezcal-esque rubberiness. Then soft cheese creaminess.

Finish: Medium-long. The smoke lingers for less time than it takes my lips to regain feeling.

Comment: The nose is lovely, and the palate reminds me of Mezcal, which isn’t a bad thing, but it’s too hot to handle.

Score: 7.3