Taster

Nose: Fat, oily and lazilly smoky. Slightly kippery with salt and vanilla.

Palate: Sweet at first then a massive oaky intervention which dries the malt. Peat and dark chocolate.

Finish: Dark chocolate digestive biscuits with a peaty, toasty edge. Some saltiness comes through on the clinging, oily finish. Slightly tired oak spoils the balance.

Comment: A big malt, but carrying little of the magic that sets Port Ellen apart in this group. A stark reminder of what Islay has lost.

Score: 7.5

Taster

Nose: Powerfully aromatic. Roasted peppers. Olives. Salt.

Palate: Oily, soothing. Roasted peppers, olives, lemon juice.

Finish: Dry, junipery, vine-leaves, stemmy. Intense, expressive.

Comment: A wonderful aperitif. Who would have thought of a Scotch to precede Greek food?

Score: 9