Taster

Nose: Delicately phenolic. Summer shower on a bonfire. Shellfish. Sea-lettuce. Cinnamon. Thyme. Hint of leather.

Palate: Sweet maltiness and butterscotch balanced by the sharpness of the spirit. Herring in oatmeal.

Finish: Dryness. Fizzy pepperiness.

Comment: More body and richness than the '79. Still not a great warrior but a hearty fisherman.

Score: 8.3

Taster

Nose: Quite austere, linseed oil, pepper, olive with phenolic notes of tar/creosote, sea shells, a light kippery note, pipe smoke.

Palate: Great savoury start. Bursts in the mouth. Still austere, the olive and tarry smoke is there but spice as well. Huge presence.

Finish: Long, powerful.

Comment: Classy. A top-notch Port Ellen which manages to be austere yet filled with texture and rich flavours.

Score: 8.8