Taster

Nose: Bang! Kipper paté with lemon served on an oatcake. Medicinal notes (Germoline) then: fish stock, cow shed, smoked meat. Seems young.

Palate: Instant dry smoke (suggesting youth) but calms down a little and mellows in the centre.

Finish: Crowdie cheese rolled in oats, hotsmoked salmon.

Comment: Not subtle, but is it meant to be? Just needs a little sweet oak to round the edges off, but why is it called smackhead?

Score: 7.8

Taster

Nose: Smoky tea, an ashiness like a fire grate the morning after.

Palate: A little fruitiness, like black grapes. Some sweetness too and a herb character (almost basil, but not quite).

Finish: Lots of smoke, masking a fruitiness.

Comment: That Lapsang Souchong character is distinctive. Attractive youth, resolutely smoky but with a class. Lauren Bacall before the wrinkles.

Score: 9