Taster

Nose: Quite deep with oxidised notes. Dark chocolate, prune, black fruits, black cherry, walnut, polished leather, autumn earth.

Palate: Medium-bodied. Soft start but grips quite early showing real figgy age. Tannins begin to clamp down.

Finish: Dry, tannic.

Comment: Fascinating, but the oak is having the greater say.

Score: 7.8

Taster

Nose: Polished oak.

Palate: Malty. Darjeeling tea. Leafy. Tobacco.

Finish: Liquorice. Cough sweets. Assertive spiciness.

Comment: A Speysider with a rich chestnut colour, plenty of aroma and lots of flavour. Makes a change from the dumbed-down and the terminally delicate.

Score: 8.3