Taster

Nose: Like diving into a pile of dry leaves, the earthiness of a potting shed, turned soil and then poached pears, sherry soaked raisins and Eccles cakes.

Palate: Sweet and oily, buttered fruit toast, marmalade, strawberry jam and a little cream. There’s something vegetal here too, that earthiness, prune juice, fresh figs and ham.

Finish: Dries with plenty of those sherry-soaked raisins and sugar-coated almonds too.

Comment: Straight into the autumns of my childhood here, sweeping leaves and digging potatoes.

Score: 7.9

Taster

Nose: Distinctly sherried, with the aroma of rubber, baking spice, sweet fortified wine and marzipan too.

Palate: Thick, sweet and winey. Rich fruitcake smothered in marzipan and doused in sherry. The intense sweet wine subsides a little, allowing some spice and baked fruits to emerge. Things take a rubbery turn with water.

Finish: All sherry sweetness, some nuts and dried currants, but a little flat.

Comment: Great if you love sherry, but for me the cask is far too dominant here.

Score: 7.4