Taster

Nose: Highly smoked: smoked ham, fat, the tar on the wooden walls of a smokehouse, but then the door is opened to let in a grassy fragrance. Goes very cloudy with water, then some coal tar.

Palate: Fragrant and floral (violet) then a blast of tarry rope. Good balance.

Finish: Lingering smoke.

Comment: The key, as ever is balance '

Score: 8.3

Taster

Nose: Vanilla. Perfumy. Dry grass. Then late smokiness. Grilled sardines.

Palate: Slides off the tongue. Oily. A creamy risotto, with spinach, lemon and saffron.

Finish: Smoky again.

Comment: Beautifully complex.

Score: 8.8