Taster

Nose: At first, pear drop, higher alcohols, inks, and pencil shavings. Plaster of Paris, orange blossom water and subtle rose petals. Jasmine tea. Then butterscotch and baked banana. Stone dust.

Palate: Medium-light, but a little oily. Peach hard candy, jasmine, pear drop, and an undercurrent of caramel. Buttermilk pancake with sliced banana. Vanilla cream.

Finish: Medium-long. A marzipan note builds.

Comment: What seems simple at first unfolds to show layers of complexity.

Score: 8.4

Taster

Nose: Orange and lemon sherbet at first. Then ice-cream wafer, grassy spice, plum cake, and crushed walnut. Thin, buttery cookies with flaked almond and honey. Hints of sour cream and wood polish.

Palate: Fresh figs, tea cake, maple syrup, almond, turmeric latte, and a hint of smoked tofu. Malt loaf. Delicate orange and lemon citrus.

Finish: Medium-short, on malt loaf and honey with a hint of salmon skin.

Comment: There were elements of this that made me hesitate, but I warmed to it with time.

Score: 7.9