Taster

Nose: Plenty of fruit hits off this, grilled pineapple and bruised mint, melon with cinnamon, candied nuts and a moreish saline edge too.

Palate: Ah that’s where the smoke is hiding, coal tar soap and dying wood fires. Some lovely citrus notes, oranges and dark chocolate, lemon oil and melted vanilla and brown sugar with a little clove.

Finish: Everything rolls in together wrapped in those glorious peat notes and then dries.

Comment: Like eating lemon drizzle cake and vanilla ice cream at the end of the pier.

Score: 8.5

Taster

Nose: A beach breeze: a little salt, sand and kelp. Toasted almond butter, roasted figs and blood orange flesh.

Palate: Mouth coating and full of sweet blood orange juice, roasted nectarines and hazelnuts. Bonfire smoke winds through, with added punch from some anise and cardamom as well.

Finish: Smoky, citrusy and a little bitter, like grilled orange skins.

Comment: Fruit-forward and juicy yet still smoky and gripping.

Score: 8.7