Taster

Nose: There may be some smoke in the back, showing in antiseptic, coal and creosote, mixed in with vanilla ice cream. A wet dog rests on a path of wet slate, chewing on a tube of mint toothpaste.

Palate: Silky then chewy; sweet and smoky. Caramel and butterscotch mix with hickory smoke, before a tarry character overtakes everything alongside a numbing Szechuan pepper heat.

Finish: Puffs of smoke from my lungs whilst on a sand dune, enjoying vanilla fudge.

Comment: Brash and ballsy – for peat freaks.

Score: 8.1

Taster

Nose: Farmyard, wet straw and horses, goat's cheese and honey. Fruit, apple compote, fresh baked sourdough bread, wrapped in a wonderful smoke laden blanket.

Palate: Burnt ends (a good thing), sweet BBQ marinated lamb, almost tamarind, then the smoke. Wood and coal mix, sweet and mineral at the same time.

Finish: Brief and full of smoke. Dried, leaving a syrup waffle note.

Comment: Water ramps up the sweetness with this and tames that alcohol prickle.

Score: 7.6